My Motor and Transmission Mount Saga

741 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Olszewski, 1 d ago

2023BD

Today I spent all day working on my 23 GT 6spd. Since installing the Racechip GTS last year I have been fighting excessive traction and wheel hop issues in 1st and 2nd gear. The first thing I did was install Whiteline lower trans mount inserts KDT970 KDT970 Trans mount insert – Whiteline USA (whitelineperformance.com). They worked good but the shake at idle was more than I wanted. I then bought Powerflex Yellow PFF26-120 Hyundai Veloster N, I30N, ELANTRA N (2017+) Engine Lower Torque Arm Bushings | PowerflexUSA but I decided to try something different. I put Whiteline insert in the rear spot and installed the Powerflex yellow in the front position. The vibration at idle is gone and there is no wheel hop at the moment but that also could be the new 235/45/17 Continental DWS06 vs the 225/40/18 Michelin PS4, I changed the upper motor mount insert and the tires at the same time.

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2023BD

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Today I also installed the Powerflex upper engine mount PFF26-125 Hyundai Veloster Upper Engine Mount Insert | PowerflexUSA. This was easy and works perfect, with no additional vibration.

The upper transmission mount PFF26-123 Hyundai Veloster Transmission Mount Insert | PowerflexUSA was another story. I installed it and had odd noises under hard acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. I was not sure if it was the new BOV but once I realized it was in fact the upper trans mount I remember it needed to be ground down a little because it hits the mount. Well after removing the steel plate 3 times and grinding almost an 1/8 inch off the side that was hitting I gave up. I test drove it after each attempt, but I swear it got worse the more I took off. I decided to just remove the upper trans mount insert and everything was perfect again. The lower trans inserts and the upper engine mount do a great job and don't add any extra vibrations. I will just keep it like this for now.

It is hard to tell but it looks like the right side is almost touching from top to bottom in this pic.

Hand Human body Water Liquid Automotive tire

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2023BD

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

noturbonoproblem said:
Make sure to pull some material off the back corners too. Both my car and Hamster-GT's car had this issue. I ground 1/8" off the corners and 1/16" off the side and that did the trick, though my FE is making far less power than your GT surely is.

I might not have taken enough off the corners. Maybe I will give it another try when I do the next oil change.

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2023BD

Discussion Starter · #7 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

In regards to the lower transmission mount - The Whiteline bushing (KDT970) in the rear position and the Powerflex yellow (PFF26-120) in the front position works perfect. No vibration or wheel hop. Plus I have a spare set of bushings now that I can install once I feel like the set I have in it are getting tired. With the upper motor mount bushing installed and the 235/45/17 Continental I am not getting wheel hop anymore, just smooth controllable wheel spin.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · 2 d ago (Edited)

Decided to update since I finally trimmed the trans mount plate enough and installed it a couple weeks ago. Everything is perfect now, No noises or vibrations and wheel hop is controlled very well now. If you drive hard and get occasional wheel hop I would highly suggest doing all three bushings/inserts. I used the Powerflex "yellow" and Whiteline "standard" combo in the lower torque arm, Powerflex "purple" in the upper transmission mount and Powerflex "yellow" in the upper engine mount. Once they get broken in like mine there is no additional NVH to speak of.

Here is how much I trimmed off the transmission metal plate so that it did not hit on the firewall side of the mount.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · 2 d ago

How did you get the yellow upper motor mount insert to work without the black metal cylinder.

Here are all the part numbers for the ones I installed

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Discussion Starter · #15 · 1 d ago (Edited)

60ft is hard to test accurately since there are so many variables when you have a manual transmission. I can say that since putting in all three inserts the 60ft is between 2.35-2.40 every time with a rare 2.30-2.34. When I just had the lower torque strut inserts the 60ft was more erratic (2.38-2.47) since wheel hop would sometimes take over. Now it is more of a controlled wheel spin that is manageable unless the Continentals get too hot. The Continental DWS06 plus really likes 50-70 degrees. Under 40 or over 80 degrees they loose grip much quicker.

My 0-60 times are down about 0.2-0.3 seconds as well since there is less spin and hop in 2nd now as well.

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