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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ran into a little issue today on the fuel line... The "T" in the zex kit is to big for the nylon fuel line. So needless to say the NOS Koup has hit yet another hurdle. Guess I will be researching some 1/4" barbed to AN fitting adaptors tomorrow.

Sigh.... getting so close too.
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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What HP jet are you going to use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
55 anything above that and you have to retard engine. I dont want it running less than perfect while not on the bottle.
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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I'm glad you're thinking and not just "maxing" out the nitrous!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok... update... the kit is fully mounted and bottle is charged. I just have to program the ZEX controly unit. Still having trouble trying to find the correct wire to connect the activation wire on the TB. I did some research this morning and I think I was goign about it wrong. I unpluged the TB control harnes and was checking it with a multi meter. I think, based on what I am reading, that when I did that the computer goes in to a failsafe mode. So I will have to try to rig something in line with the plug so I can have it connected and test again. I also sent a picture of the wire diagram to ZEX to see if they could help narrow it down.

Next I guess I will have to save up money for a dyno run to get you guys some numbers.
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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when working with complex drive-by-wire electrical devices it's best not to use a multimeter unless you know what the wires go to and what amount of current they can accept. Some of them are to systems that use VERY low voltage and you can end up damaging terminals/components just by grounding them out -- even with the key off and out.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well how else would you find the proper wire that changes voltage when throttle is depressed?
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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Factory wiring schematics. Someone posted the schematics for the throttle body on one of the Kia Forte forums...I can't find it now...as usual...
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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Get an account (register) on the KiaTechInfo site:

Kia Global Information System (KGIS)

Then on the left of the page click on "service"
then hit the drop down menus and click on "Forte", "2010", and "engine"
Then look for:

*Body Electrical System
**General Information
***General Information
***Audio Multifunction Switch
***Horn Smart key System
***Keyless Entry
***BCM (Body Control Module)
**** Body Control Module (BCM)
****** Specifications
******Schematic Diagrams
******Description and Operation
******Repair procedures

You can look at all the wiring to your heart's content...LoL
 

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I'm going to assume US and Canadian harnesses are wired the same, in which case your TPS/ETC connector is a six wire:
  1. TPS Ground - black
  2. TPS Power 5V - brown
  3. ETC Input1 - green
  4. TPS1 Signal - pink
  5. TPS2 Signal - orange
  6. ETC Input2 - lite blue
The ECU will send a constant 5V down the 2, and it looks for it to come back on the 4+5. At idle 4 will show about 0.5V and 5 will show about 4.5V. At WOT they are flipped, in that 4 now has 4.5V and 5 will be down to 0.5V. These are all approximate, but the gist is that 4+5 will always = 5V. If not, then p0221/p0222/p0223 are set, depending on which variance exists.

So 4 is your wire if you need an increasing voltage to show throttle plate opening, and 5 is the one if you require the opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that was my theory that 4 and 5 were the wires I was looking for... just was not sure which one of those i needed. but now I know!!

Thanks for the help! will have it up and running tomorrow night if i manage to get some spare time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok... I worked on it a little more tonight and the color code you listed is different but the diagram you layed out seems to match what I have. So I would hope it is safe to assume that pin4 no matter what color the wire is my connection. wrote this on a coffee break. wanted to take one more quick glance at you responce to make sure I was correct. Going to go test it out now.
 

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I just double checked and those are the colours straight out of the manual; I poured over all 12 pages of the MFI Control and there are no variances listed for the G4KE. But I'll be the first to admit it's not the first time I've seen a harness full of the wrong kind of rainbow. Maybe 'pink' in Korean is 'grey' in English... hahaha

Either way, 1 should be black (not seen them mess that one up yet) so next row down is 4, and off you go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok... got frustrated last night ad went to bed at about 12:30 am. Didnt feel like posting. Pin 4 and 5 are blue and green. Pink was on 6 on my harness. I will take a picture of it and post it tonight when I get home. I am sure I am looking at the wright pins because the connector is marked 1-6 on on both sides so no matter which side you look at you can match wire to pin by number. Now if the harness numbers are not actually the number referenced on the wire diagram I have, which has no colors listed, then I am using the wrong wire I guess. Diagram I have been going off is here.

http://www.forteforums.com/forums/kia-forte-2-4l-engine-discussion/119-throttle-body.html
 

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Well, lookie there... that is one of two diagrams for the harness, but either way, both show the same colours/pins for the wires so I am just as confused. Best thing is to back-probe at idle, and look for about a half-a-volt.

Curiosity prompts me to peek at my car to see if it's the same. I'll do that after lunch and post back.
 

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It is official... pin '6' on the connector is what we call pin '4' on the diagram - which is your TPS1 signal, and at idle mine reads 0.58V. This wire for me is pink, and is the "top-most" wire when the harness is connected. No idea why Kia swapped the numbers on us, but it is what it is, and it is Mr. Pink.

BTW: that diagram you have linked does have the colours (albeit the wrong ones) as about half way along any wire depicted you'll see something like 0.5Y. That means the wire you're looking for is 0.5mm in diameter, and Yellow. L is blue, O is orange, Br brown, etc... and stripes are B/Y which is black with a yellow stripe... just for future reference. Helpful when a harness may have four red wires, but one is 1.5mm and three are 0.5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok... Finally got it to work. The way I got it to work confuses me and makes sense at the same time. The way I got it to work was put the NMU in learning mode with the sensor wire connected to pin 4. I then manual opend and closed TB and it gave me the responce that it had learned something. I then went in fliped the arming switch off then back on as you would normaly do. Went back out to TB and manually cycled it a few times and you could hear the relays in the NMU working as they should. Why that worked over the pedal I have no idea. My only asumption is that because the car isnt running and acutally cycling the TB so the NMU didnt see enough voltage change to make it work... No clue at this point all I know is that it works.

I hooked fuel and N20 lines up and took it down to the "track" and ran it a few times with and without the bottle. Lets just say that on the bottle gives the car enough torque stear that you know your in for a ride!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
hmm just read your post that you put as I was posting.. now I am even more lost..... It is working with mine acutally on pin 4 which I think is blue... I have connected and reconnected so many times I have rainbows in my head. I guess I will go back out and try to hook it up to the pink and see if it works. I am about 90% sure I tried it on 6 and using the pedal to train the NMU was a big failure. Did you have the car actually running with you did your voltage read?

Maybe I need to try to train the NMU with the car on... which scares me, because that means holding WOT for 10 seconds to train it in park.
 

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The blue wire is one of the two wires the ECM uses for the throttle plate motor, itself. So technically if you monitor that wire, then you'll see voltage change as the motor opens and closes, but it may not be a linear value from closed to WOT. The pink and orange are your position sensors and thus will be very exact to tell you what the throttle is at.

The car must be running while you perform the learn, as the entire system won't follow your pedal push unless it thinks there is a reason to. I just tried. Throttle stays closed no matter the pedal position unless a tach signal, etc is seen. The ECU thinks that if it's not running, why go WOT? That may prove slightly problematic as this means you'll have to have it running when you floor it for the first time... I cannot see an easy way to bypass or jumper this to fudge it while it's not actively running.

All my readings were done at idle, 860 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
like i figured... so 10 seconds at WOT in park huh... I guess one time wouldnt be that bad.
 
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