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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just thought you might find this interesting. Just a video showing my sub and amp set-up in my Koup.


I need to dynomat the trunk area so if anybody has any suggestions on anything cheaper than actual dynomat that works just as good, let me know lol
 

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try fatmat. i've heard some good things from it. some people say it smells a little, but i havent smelled it yet. if your gonna sound deaden your trunk go ahead and sound dead your rear deck as well. that thing will rattle like a mother fucker. and great spot for the amp. i've been having problem with my amp being mounted on the box.
 

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just be glad your not runing 2500w rms through two 12" s
 

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Try 2400w through a single 10". Sometimes I swear all I hear is rattle!
BTW, any suggestions on how to solid mount my sub in my trunk? I don't really want to put holes in the bottom of the trunk, but if I have to I guess that's all there is to it...
 

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i've heard that good velcrow actually works wonders for sliding. thats what i'm gonna try soon. and shit son. that's alot of power for one sub.
 

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I looked at sound deadening my truck before i sold it and I was told to look at RAAM Mat (RAAMaudio

It was somewhere around $300 (if i remember right) or so to deaden everything in my truck (floor and behind door panels) just email them and tell them what you wanna do and theyll put a kit together for you. Ive heard that this stuff is equal to or better than dynamat considering its price. Im gonna end up matting the whole car at some point just to make it super quiet.
 

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dont use dynamat. it is over priced for what it does. plus there are better brands that are cheaper. fat mat is ok. second skin is really good but expensive. there is also audio wrap. stay away from anything like peal and seal
 

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how should I do the rear deck? when looking under there the surface is very bumpy and holey lol
the sound deaener just comes in sheets. you peel of the sticky and using a small hand roller just put it down and roller it down to make it smooth. and anywhere the is a screw or some other hole that has something that goes through it, just use a knife or box cuter and cut it out.
 

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and you will (obviously) have to remove the rear deck and put the deadener on the frame and not just the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmmm, the rear deck is where most of the rattle is coming from. Yall think I could get away with just doing the rear deck? Or you think I'll be unhappy with that?
 

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i'd say start there. if you do it and there's still rattle, do you trunk lid second, from there just work your way through whatever else is rattleing.
 

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check out one of my older threads on how to deaden the rear deck...

I used a duct-seal clay product, packed it tight to the underside of the rear deck, and now it's silent. cost about $40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok, yeah, I'll probably do that. I'm gonna call the shop I have my work done at and see if they have any sound deadener for sale for a decent price. If not I guess I'll order some.
 
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