[El Spicoli]

Check out panda motorworks for dyno figures but I don't know how reliable it is

I called panda and maybe I just got the wrong dude on the phone. I asked the difference btw S and GTS and he was like - did you check their site.
He was kinda rude. I definitely won't be one of their customers. Had he been more informative, I might have considered a stop on my recent Missouri trip.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[currantredGT]

I called panda and maybe I just got the wrong dude on the phone. I asked the difference btw S and GTS and he was like - did you check their site.
He was kinda rude. I definitely won't be one of their customers. Had he been more informative, I might have considered a stop on my recent Missouri trip.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

If I end up buying one, Im planning on getting it from here

Performance chips – Chip tuning by RaceChip for Kia Forte III 1.6T (150KW) | RaceChip

Chip tuning from RaceChip for your Kia Forte III 1.6T (150KW). Experience the true potential and power of your KIA.

www.racechip.us

To me, +32 hp and +56 lb-ft is a pretty damn good deal for $280...

When you called panda the guy could have answered how much boost, for example, is experienced with each one..He probably doesnt know anything lol...

"The chip tuning software module processes in real time and then transmits the optimized data to the corresponding control sensors in your vehicle. The result is a considerable power boost you can feel – by increasing the boost pressure, adjusting the fuel injection angle, and slightly increasing the fuel injection quantity".

From racechip.us

 

[lephoenix]

ha! you have the S racechip...how do you like it so far?
I will be getting a dragy once more probably around Feb to run some base stock runs with the GT...Im still not sure If I want to add the chip. Wanna get some input first...
Have you noticed any differences?

I like it. I've got it set to 1 right now because I need an oil change (mileage is fine but I put that oil in there in March, not driving much due to covid) and am not inclined to push it at all.

If I were keeping up with maintenance a bit better I would have considered bumping it up to 3 again. For me, the S is all that I would need other than the bluetooth app would be nice. Racechip can even send you updates and you can apply them through the app. Plus changing modes would be easier. It's not hard now but using an app is always easier than popping the hood.

 

[currantredGT]

Hello All,

I know a lot of people have been wondering if the Racechip actually works or does anything at all. I hope this thread can shed some light on that. I don't have dyno results at this time and I may never have that but I have done a bit of testing with 40-60mph pulls using the Torque Pro App. So here is my setup and results.

Setup		Notes
Timed via:	Torque Pro App
Boost via:	Depo Racing WA5201LED via Manifold port.	Can't use Boost from ECU via OBD2 as this is being altered by the Racechip.
Gear:	3rd
Start Speed:	35mph	To give time to build full boost
Fuel Type:	93 octane
Fuel Level:	80%
Driver weight:	200lbs
Cargo weight:	28.5lbs	Diono 3R carseat, it's a heavy one.
Road Grade:	Flat pavement (no hill)
Wind:	Very low to zero
Drive Mode:	Sport, Traction control off
Intake Mod:	SXTH Short Ram W/O BPV
Spark Plugs:	Stock

	Stock	Racechip Level 7
Peak Boost	15-18	22-24	psi
40-60 Best	2.99	2.49	seconds
40-60 Worst	3.48	2.73	seconds
40-60 Avg	3.20	2.60	seconds

General Notes:

- When switching between off or on for the racechip you have to do a few pulls to get the boost to be more consistent and I believe for the ECU to get the timing to be more consistent as well.

- The only thing the Racechip is doing is interrupting the Boost Signal for the Boost Solenoid and the MAP.

- Sometimes Boost will surge (up and down) which can be felt in the butt dyno. The best times had none of that just a nice flat boost level/feel.

- There was no wheel spin at anytime in 3rd gear.

I got my Racechip GTS on sale for $449.00 including the App control. They had a sale for $100 off.

So basically the Racechip GTS pushes peak boost from about 17 psi stock to 23 psi, which is a approximately 6 psi increase which is definitely able to be felt by the driver. I'd say if it's not +48hp/+85 lb-ft of torque then it's damn close. You can remove it at anytime in about 2 mins including the time to pop the hood. If you're looking for a bit more power but don't want a huge hassle with tuning, in my opinion this is a good option.

If anyone does get actual dyno results or real world time data like this please do share. No need to clog up the thread with any other crap like my XXX is better cause blah blah, without any data.

Do you recall the temps during your worst and best times?

I played around with my dragy today and was able to achieve the following (on 93 octane):


2.67 sec as my BEST and....actually using SMART mode, not SPORT. Interesting.
The temps are included.
Have you been able to track other numbers with the GTS

 

[Wifeismad]

Do you recall the temps during your worst and best times?

I played around with my dragy today and was able to achieve the following (on 93 octane):
View attachment 81443 View attachment 81444 View attachment 81443 View attachment 81444

2.67 sec as my BEST and....actually using SMART mode, not SPORT. Interesting.
The temps are included.
Have you been able to track other numbers with the GTS

For temps I didn't record that for some reason but it was mid September so I'd guess the ambient temp was around 75-65 F. Sorry I haven't really done any other testing since. Just to be clear the Racechip GTS itself doesn't record anything I use a Bluetooth OBDII plug that talks to my phone via the Torque Pro app.

One other thing to mention now is that I don't fully trust my boost gauge's accuracy anymore and I should independently verify it. I haven't seen 24psi peak in months. Maximum I see now is about 21psi. But the car still accelerates as fast, verified by 40-60 pulls still in the 2.5 sec range. I think the problem is I have the boost gauge turn on once I hit the start button. Which means when the gauge comes on there is some vacuum in the line due to the engine turning over. And when it first turns on I believe it does a re-zeroing sweep. This may be affecting the absolute number. I have fancy pressure sensors at work that I can use and try to correlate. I just need to borrow one and set it up.

Other than that I haven't really done anymore testing. When the weather warms up I'll probably head to the local drag strip for some runs for fun. But there will be lots more variables as I'll be on street tires and my amateur self will be driving haha. I did see your other post and it's got me itching to go but winter shuts down the strips around here.

So are all 4 of your pulls with the same setup? What are your mods? I assume these are pulls without a Racechip, but I don't know. I also should have tracked intake temps. Can you do that with the dragy? Because once the intercooler starts building up heat I bet power will drop a bit and therefore 40-60 times will increase.

I see that you have the GT2 with the 7sp DCT. What was your technique? As in did you floor it right at 40mph or a little before to give time for the car to down shift and reach full boost before crossing the 40mph "start line"? I have a manual so I just kept it in 3rd and go full throttle at 35mph so by the time I hit 40mph boost is fully built up. I also wonder if the DCT shifts during your 40-60mph pull. As if I wanted the fastest time I would probably try starting in 2nd and shift to 3rd but for my testing I wanted to compare and keep my inconsistent shifting out of the variable list.

 

[currantredGT]

For temps I didn't record that for some reason but it was mid September so I'd guess the ambient temp was around 75-65 F. Sorry I haven't really done any other testing since. Just to be clear the Racechip GTS itself doesn't record anything I use a Bluetooth OBDII plug that talks to my phone via the Torque Pro app.

One other thing to mention now is that I don't fully trust my boost gauge's accuracy anymore and I should independently verify it. I haven't seen 24psi peak in months. Maximum I see now is about 21psi. But the car still accelerates as fast, verified by 40-60 pulls still in the 2.5 sec range. I think the problem is I have the boost gauge turn on once I hit the start button. Which means when the gauge comes on there is some vacuum in the line due to the engine turning over. And when it first turns on I believe it does a re-zeroing sweep. This may be affecting the absolute number. I have fancy pressure sensors at work that I can use and try to correlate. I just need to borrow one and set it up.

Other than that I haven't really done anymore testing. When the weather warms up I'll probably head to the local drag strip for some runs for fun. But there will be lots more variables as I'll be on street tires and my amateur self will be driving haha. I did see your other post and it's got me itching to go but winter shuts down the strips around here.

So are all 4 of your pulls with the same setup? What are your mods? I assume these are pulls without a Racechip, but I don't know. I also should have tracked intake temps. Can you do that with the dragy? Because once the intercooler starts building up heat I bet power will drop a bit and therefore 40-60 times will increase.

I see that you have the GT2 with the 7sp DCT. What was your technique? As in did you floor it right at 40mph or a little before to give time for the car to down shift and reach full boost before crossing the 40mph "start line"? I have a manual so I just kept it in 3rd and go full throttle at 35mph so by the time I hit 40mph boost is fully built up. I also wonder if the DCT shifts during your 40-60mph pull. As if I wanted the fastest time I would probably try starting in 2nd and shift to 3rd but for my testing I wanted to compare and keep my inconsistent shifting out of the variable list.

I like the torque APP, seems better than car scanner for apple (in terms of displaying info)...I bought an OBDII as well to track certain values like IAT's and boost especially but, honestly, idk if its 100% accurate or the car really needs an better IC lol...The few times I plugged it in to check out those values, ambient temps being 55-66F, car scanner was showing 80-90F, which is weird....there's no way that being THAT chilly out that it will heat up that much (no long idling/traffic), and as for boost, the max it showed was 15.5 psi, I think.

My car is 100% stock, only k&n air filter (for a lil bit of turbo sound), and running 93 octane from BP.
I was really not expecting that 1/4 mi # given that I used no launch and I have the Kuhmos all seasons that come with the DCT's...
My best 0-60 so far: 6.38 sec, no launch
1/4 mi: 14.62 sec @ 95.2 mph...
I was not expecting mid 14s...at all. It was satisfying, though lol

I'm pretty confident that w/ a 1500-1800 rpms launch, some nice grippy tires, this car can do 6.15 sec 0-60, and dare I say 14.45 sec @ 97 mph, which is pretty damn respectable...my 60ft wasnt exactly great which could probably be improved w/ better tires and a slight launch. I dont want to go around launching my DCT, though lol I read that its not that good to do that...maybe w/ the manuals. Also, I try to keep my runs as "real world" as possible, as launching is only beneficial at the drag strip, really. That sucks that you cant go! but surely do let us know how it does! I am debating on getting the Racechip S, I read somewhere that the DCT can only tolerate up to 270 lb-ft , otherwise you could run some issues..idk...+50 lb-ft seem pretty healthy to me...but idk yet.

As for my "rolls", I typically start a little bit before to build some boost, like you said. I did notice that SMART mode yielded some better performance in some of them.

I did a comparison chart between my 2016 mustang (only k&n air filter and MBRP race catback running 93 octane, and summer tires) against the forte, I was surprised at the results:

	‘21 FoGT	‘16 Mustang 2.3t	difference
45-65	2.95 s	2.74 s	0.21 s
40-60	2.67 s	Did not record one.
50-70	3.2 s	2.94 s	0.26 s
25-55	3.33 s	3.09 s	0.24 s
30-60	3.6 s	3.24 s	0.36 s
30-70	5.41 s	4.94 s	0.47 s
55-85	6.04 s	5.36 s	0.68 s
60-90	6.7 s	5.58 s	1.12 s
40-80	6.8 s	6.16 s	0.64 s
45-85	7.42	6.28 s	1.14 s
1/4 mi	14.6 s @ 95.2 mph (all season tires)	13.8 sec @ 100.5 mph (summer tires)
1/8 mi	9.45 s @76.19 mph (all season)	8.98 s @ 79.1 mph (summer tires)
0-60	6.38 sec (all season tires, no launch, 68F)	5.53 sec (summer tires, 1500 rpm launch, 75F)	0.85 sec

All runs performed in this little area I know with no cars, just perfect.

 

[currantredGT]

I like the torque APP, seems better than car scanner for apple (in terms of displaying info)...I bought an OBDII as well to track certain values like IAT's and boost especially but, honestly, idk if its 100% accurate or the car really needs an better IC lol...The few times I plugged it in to check out those values, ambient temps being 55-66F, car scanner was showing 80-90F, which is weird....there's no way that being THAT chilly out that it will heat up that much (no long idling/traffic), and as for boost, the max it showed was 15.5 psi, I think.

My car is 100% stock, only k&n air filter (for a lil bit of turbo sound), and running 93 octane from BP.
I was really not expecting that 1/4 mi # given that I used no launch and I have the Kuhmos all seasons that come with the DCT's...
My best 0-60 so far: 6.38 sec, no launch
1/4 mi: 14.62 sec @ 95.2 mph...
I was not expecting mid 14s...at all. It was satisfying, though lol

I'm pretty confident that w/ a 1500-1800 rpms launch, some nice grippy tires, this car can do 6.15 sec 0-60, and dare I say 14.45 sec @ 97 mph, which is pretty damn respectable...my 60ft wasnt exactly great which could probably be improved w/ better tires and a slight launch. I dont want to go around launching my DCT, though lol I read that its not that good to do that...maybe w/ the manuals. Also, I try to keep my runs as "real world" as possible, as launching is only beneficial at the drag strip, really. That sucks that you cant go! but surely do let us know how it does! I am debating on getting the Racechip S, I read somewhere that the DCT can only tolerate up to 270 lb-ft , otherwise you could run some issues..idk...+50 lb-ft seem pretty healthy to me...but idk yet.

As for my "rolls", I typically start a little bit before to build some boost, like you said. I did notice that SMART mode yielded some better performance in some of them.

I did a comparison chart between my 2016 mustang (only k&n air filter and MBRP race catback running 93 octane, and summer tires) against the forte, I was surprised at the results:

	‘21 FoGT	‘16 Mustang 2.3t	difference
45-65	2.95 s	2.74 s	0.21 s
40-60	2.67 s	Did not record one.
50-70	3.2 s	2.94 s	0.26 s
25-55	3.33 s	3.09 s	0.24 s
30-60	3.6 s	3.24 s	0.36 s
30-70	5.41 s	4.94 s	0.47 s
55-85	6.04 s	5.36 s	0.68 s
60-90	6.7 s	5.58 s	1.12 s
40-80	6.8 s	6.16 s	0.64 s
45-85	7.42	6.28 s	1.14 s
1/4 mi	14.6 s @ 95.2 mph (all season tires)	13.8 sec @ 100.5 mph (summer tires)
1/8 mi	9.45 s @76.19 mph (all season)	8.98 s @ 79.1 mph (summer tires)
0-60	6.38 sec (all season tires, no launch, 68F)	5.53 sec (summer tires, 1500 rpm launch, 75F)	0.85 sec

All runs performed in this little area I know with no cars, just perfect.

^^^ notice how I used FoGT