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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
3 of my lug bolts snapped in half, long story, took off wheel, to see there wasn't enough clearance to replace the bolts so I'm trying to take the hub off. I got the big nut in the middle off, removed caliper and brake rotor and still don't see how I can get the hub off. Would I have to punch out the bearings and probably replace those just to get these bolts out?
 

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I haven't studied the hub on my Forte, but are the lugs just being stopped by the dust shield? If so, can you just bend it out of the way, and then bend it back after the lugs have been replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't studied the hub on my Forte, but are the lugs just being stopped by the dust shield? If so, can you just bend it out of the way, and then bend it back after the lugs have been replaced?
Yeah that's what I would like to do. People said they have to cut a piece of the dust shield and it's kind of hard to bend it back, you also have to cut off some of the bolt to make it a D shape to get it past the steering knuckle. I'm not sure if that would be better or not.
 

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How about drilling a slightly oversized exit hole in the shield? Some shields have holes in them for that purpose, and perhaps a small hole would be better than cutting and bending the shield. I don't think a hole in the shield would affect anything, but you could JB Weld a small patch over the backside of the hole if it bothers you. Again, I don't have a wheel off to check anything, but I'd guess that you could somehow get a drill or Dremel in there to get the hole cut.
 

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If it is like the Hondas, the only way to get to the bolts is to remove the hub/bearing. Probably need to remove the knuckle and hammer out the bearing/hub. I tried unsuccessfully with a slide hammer on the Honda Odyssey. Only way to remove the shield on the Honda is with the hub removed. What a crappy design. Good luck.
 

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Can I reuse the bearing after I get it out then press is back in?
No, the hub is pressed to the inner race and the outer race is pressed to the knuckle. Once the hub is hammered out you essentially destroy the bearing assembly. Here is a link to a guy doing a bearing job to give you an idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWw__cb-_8I

Will need an alignment after reinstall of the knuckle.

I would say the bearing job is a 6 or 7 on a scale of 10. Oil change =1, clutch replace =10
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was afraid of that. What a pain in the ass just to change some studs. They could of made it easier. I think I'm just going to cut a piece of the dust shield to get them in and then try to weld it back together. The other way I would have to buy a bearing press and have a hell of a time doing all that and I need my car for work. Also just paid 130 bucks for a special alignment about 2 weeks ago don't feel like doing that again to get back to my - 2.5 camber
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the help guys! I just went ahead and cut the dust shield so I was able to bend it back to punch the old studs out then shaved off a little of the head of the new stud to I could fit it past the knuckle. Put a washer, bigger nut, and a lug not on it to punch it through. Bent back the dust shield and I'm good to go now.
 

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Excellent thanks for the photos

Did this this afternoon. Brake shield was rubbing after test drive over 15MPH, so had to take it all apart again and make sure the tab was straight. Make sure you spin the hub when you put the rotor and caliper back on to catch this. Other than that issue cut the same slot in the shield as worked for me.
 

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3 of my lug bolts snapped in half, long story, took off wheel, to see there wasn't enough clearance to replace the bolts so I'm trying to take the hub off. I got the big nut in the middle off, removed caliper and brake rotor and still don't see how I can get the hub off. Would I have to punch out the bearings and probably replace those just to get these bolts out?
Take the whole hub assembly out and have the bearing press out and new stud put in with new bearing.
 
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