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Had an issue this afternoon starting my car. Took about 8 sec before it got running. Obivously I know that any car will have a tough time starting in colder weather. I just found it odd since i had it running 30 min perviously for a quick 4 min drive and it has in the past started just fine in colder temps.
 

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You state you had it running 30 minutes for a quick 4 minute drive, so you let it warm up for 26 minutes at idle? How long after that drive did the restart attempt happen?

My suspicions centre around the car then on restart being warm, and drawing in colder intake air, giving the computer a bit of a shock as it was expecting 'nice warm under the hood' air. The open loop program would have been upset at that point, and caused it to take a few extra rotations to recalculate for the rapidly changing temperature variables, and find a fuel ratio that would work for the new temp. Just speculation, but it is a possibility. Hopefully this is an isolated incident.
 

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I think he was saying he drove it for 4 minutes, 30 minutes prior. Not that it was idling for 26 minutes...
 

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Koupkiller may of meant that 30 minutes previous to when he had started it the second time he had it running for a quick 4 minute drive. I'm not sure, he'll have to clarify.

Your explanation sounds plausible though. I do know out of the very many cars I have owned or driven the Koup has the roughest start up in cold weather, it makes me a little nervous.
 

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My previous 2007 Pontiac Wave had rougher starts in -30C weather than my EX Koup. The clutch/tranny though takes longer to warm up than my old car.
 

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A lot of it has to do with the ULEV or PZEV emissions. They do things at cold start like resitrict airflow, partially close exhaust valves, etc.

You should hear my 08 Subaru. Sounds like an old clunker at cold start for about 15 seconds until it normalizes. My way of avoiding that is to start it with the shift lever in gear, which defeats that PZEV cold start weirdness. It's a manual transmission. Other way around it is to almost immediately tap the gas pedal slightly and it gets rid of it. Same may be the case with the ULEV Forte engines. But mine has been pretty normal on cold start. Not the most quiet for the first few seconds, but sounds like most other cars at cold start, IMO.
 

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any one experimenting some clacking valves noise or injectors for the first 5 kms aprox at 2500 to 3500 rpm ?? each time I start the car Im trying to not rev up to 2500rpm because its make A LOT of clacking noise like my old 88 carb civic damn it !

I DO NOT like the kia servicing at this point they always told me its normal !!

anything is normal for these and Ihave visited 2 different dealers and got the same respond. its sux totally. its probable my first and last kia car that I own just the this bad servicing ! my car only have 4500KMS on it and I got already ALOT of problems like cracking noise from the rear speakers panel, front shocks protectors fixed up with some urethane, sunroof defective but was fixed,
 

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mathsmart>>> that does not sound normal at all. I am now at 32K on my Forte sx sedan and my 1 year anniversary is coming up in just over a month and i've never had the type of noise you are refering too. Mind you I have the first gen forte since i was the first one to get it in Ontario and had to work through alot of glitches with my dearlship but they have been fantastic about everything. I would suggest you go back to the dealership... and if they give you the same answer ask to drive one on their lot and see if does the same thing... if it doesn't...there you go... proof its not normal.. all else fails... come to toronto we'll take care of you.
 

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The open loop program would have been upset at that point, and caused it to take a few extra rotations to recalculate for the rapidly changing temperature variables, and find a fuel ratio that would work for the new temp. Just speculation, but it is a possibility.
Forte is speed density with MAP/TPS/APS/Engine coolant sensor. It does not use open loop. MAP has predetermined maps and uses one of them. Thats what I understand from MAP based EFI as compared to MAF based EFI.
 

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The 'open loop' vs. 'closed loop' is in relation to the ECU going on a predetermined map based on air and engine temps, instead of monitoring the oxygen sensors to control fuel trim. Open is start up, running off the program; closed is once the engine has warmed to the point the ECU can predict performance and control the air/fuel mix to a much finer degree. All modern vehicles use an open/closed system to some degree, they just use different sensors at different times to control and adjust themselves.

Hands down, any car will do some really weird things to get the operating temp up as fast as it can, no matter the conditions. Hot engines mean less emissions... so racket and clatter be damned if it gets the government what it wants.
 

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Its my understanding MAF uses open loop. MAP does not. A speed density ECU takes in info from the sensors and selects a pre programmed map. It does not meter air.
 

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I had the same problem noon today. I pulled it out of the garage so I could jack it up and take the wheel inserts off. Took about 30 minutes went to start it again and cranked it for a good 4-5 seconds and let off then tried 10 seconds later and no problem. It sounded like it wanted to start but just wasnt getting gas. I dont even have 600 miles on it yet.
 

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I didnt look that closely as i wasnt expecting it. LIke i said, gave it a couple seconds then tried again and it was fine. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump didnt engage right or something.
 

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The antenna in the immobilizer might not be reading the key properly. I had that problem in my '09 Spectra. It usually took me 2 or 3 times to start it every time i went to start it. I was a pain in the ass lol
 
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