[blackwatch]

can anyone confirm, speaker location and sizes? 2 in the front doors, 2 in the rear quarter panel? and 2 tweeters? and what size is everything?


Thanks

BW

 

[D113]

According to Metra and Scosche the koup is 6.5" for all speaker locations and I know for fact a 1" tweeter fits in the tweeter spot.

 

[blackwatch]

Ok what i figured,

Next question, JL TR series or Alpine type S?

Looking at a component set for the front and a coaxial for the back?

BW

 

[D113]

Both sets are bottom the line from both companies. I would suggest the r series from alpine or the vr/c2's from jl.

If budget is a concern try to listen to both on a board and compare. Bring your own music! that way you'll be able to see how each performs to your tastes a best as possible. I'd say ring an iPod but usually those series' of speakers are often on board will decks that are also starter ones and may not have an iPod hookup. Hopefully you'll have a dealer that carries both and has demos set up for you to hear them. Good luck!

Another consideration would be this: invest in r series or vr/c2 or even c-5's for the fronts and leave the rears as-is or go with tr's or s series in the back. Reason being, rear fills, especially in fortes, move your listenig stage fr back and most car audio enthusiats would argue that you should not have rears altogether. I run my well equipped forte with the fader set to F6 to add just a presence of the tears but barely any. I can always fade back when I have people in the car. However I have a pair of subs, which allows me to not need the rears to help in the bass department.


Ps I'm a JL guy personally

 

[blackwatch]

Both sets are bottom the line from both companies. I would suggest the r series from alpine or the vr/c2's from jl.

If budget is a concern try to listen to both on a board and compare. Bring your own music! that way you'll be able to see how each performs to your tastes a best as possible. I'd say ring an iPod but usually those series' of speakers are often on board will decks that are also starter ones and may not have an iPod hookup. Hopefully you'll have a dealer that carries both and has demos set up for you to hear them. Good luck!

Another consideration would be this: invest in r series or vr/c2 or even c-5's for the fronts and leave the rears as-is or go with tr's or s series in the back. Reason being, rear fills, especially in fortes, move your listenig stage fr back and most car audio enthusiats would argue that you should not have rears altogether. I run my well equipped forte with the fader set to F6 to add just a presence of the tears but barely any. I can always fade back when I have people in the car. However I have a pair of subs, which allows me to not need the rears to help in the bass department.


Ps I'm a JL guy personally

Could I get away with going with the C2 in a coaxial? instead of the component set?

 

[D113]

For the fronts? you could, another Forte owner put JBL coax's in his fronts, and left the tweeter in an had it daisy chained off the coax speaker. Just remember that they were a matched pair (factory) so that equal power gets divided between them. Once you bring up the volume on your new door speakers...you'll be driving the tweeter harder, and since it's wired in series with the new door speaker, you will be robbing power from it. You could disconnect the tweeter altogether and not worry about it. Or... you could wait a month or so when JL brings out their C3's! C2's have actually replaced the Tr's but are a bit better. You should be able to find VR's at good prices since C3's are replacing them. Save a bit of extra cash and buy VR's , C3's, R-series or even C-5's.

Kenwood Excelons are are very good, and will exceed everything mentioned except C-5's or Alpine X-series.

 

[blackwatch]

For the fronts? you could, another Forte owner put JBL coax's in his fronts, and left the tweeter in an had it daisy chained off the coax speaker. Just remember that they were a matched pair (factory) so that equal power gets divided between them. Once you bring up the volume on your new door speakers...you'll be driving the tweeter harder, and since it's wired in series with the new door speaker, you will be robbing power from it. You could disconnect the tweeter altogether and not worry about it. Or... you could wait a month or so when JL brings out their C3's! C2's have actually replaced the Tr's but are a bit better. You should be able to find VR's at good prices since C3's are replacing them. Save a bit of extra cash and buy VR's , C3's, R-series or even C-5's.

Kenwood Excelons are are very good, and will exceed everything mentioned except C-5's or Alpine X-series.

VR650-CSI Components for around 200 New... Good price?

 

[D113]

Yep, compare against eBay too.

 

[blackwatch]

Yep, compare against eBay too.

Do you know what the crossover cuts the midrange at on the vr's?

BTW I have ordered the Vr's! should be here by the end of the week.

 

[D113]

Do you mean at the bottom of the midrange or at the top where it crosses over Ono the tweeter? I will bet that there's likely no low-cut on the midrange as it's designed to play everything should you not be adding subs. At this point leave the lowcut crossover duties to an amp =)

 

[blackwatch]

Do you mean at the bottom of the midrange or at the top where it crosses over Ono the tweeter? I will bet that there's likely no low-cut on the midrange as it's designed to play everything should you not be adding subs. At this point leave the lowcut crossover duties to an amp =)

The Lowcut...Jl site says FS is 59hz at the low end, so I would assume that there is a lowcut somewhere there? or it would say 20hz No?

Thanks alot for all you info.

Dan

 

[D113]

that's definitely possible.. i didnt check, but Fs is simply free-air resonance.. the point at which the speaker's mechanical makeup will contribute to it's over-emphasis of a frequency. This doesnt mean the speaker is incapable of playing below this frequency, just output will considerably lower as you go further down in frequency. Now that I check the specs, I see that it's not Fs on the site.. it's the frequency response.

This being said, for the moment, my C-5's are crossed over at 72Hz with a 6db slope. This i find keeps the sound out of the doors in-check for now until further deadening.

D

 

[blackwatch]

Hey all, JL components are going in the front this weekend, Now onto the rears....Would you recommend a coax, or a just a midrange woofer? Any model recomendations to go with the JL VR's in the front.

 

[D113]

Go for the xr coax's you'll want the full range back there too if you have guests I'm the car. Hopefully the mount depth isn't an issue.

I got c-5 coax coming for the rears so I'll be jl front to back!

 

[blackwatch]

is there a huge difference between the XR coax's and the VR Coax's? I can get the VR's for a smokin good deal...

or is it worth the extra money to get the XR's.

I dont really care about the people in the back seat, its all about MY listening pleasure. LOL

 

[D113]

Vr's are good too however if you are going to add an amp down the road the xr's handle more power especially in the lowend. Vr's are well priced because they are getting replaced by c3s. Xr's were replaced by c5s. If you can, do xr's in the front and vr's as fill in the back.

 

[blackwatch]

I have already got the VR Components for the front. So just now looking for something for "fill" for the back.

Thanks

BW

 

[caroach]

Do any of these speakers require you to cut out the face plate on the door? I would rather keep the stock look inside the car but want to replace the front and back speakers. Especially in the front since the SX has the lighted speakers.

 

[D113]

Nope.. most aftermarket speakers will fit behind.

 

[cyberalex57]

i put 5.5" beyma they fit perfect.