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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So many have asked for a write up on the removal of the factory head unit. So here it is. I am going to document the entire install of my stereo.

The first thing I did was remove the air vents…not fun…but doable. If you use the tool made with a heavy-duty coat hanger you can be all right. Do a search about the tool. After you remove the vents you will see the four screws that need to be removed. See picture #1 and #2.

Secondly remove 4 said screws. After that I loosened the bottom of the center bezel. This is where it gets crappy. The entire unit removes very tightly. It is a pain in the rear but be gentle and pull from the sides nicely. It will come out. There are 8 plugs that need to removed from the back of the bezel. One at the top for the flashers, 2 for the AC and 3 on the back of the stereo and 2 small ones on the radio as well. (Antenna) Once that is done you can set the unit aside.

I decided to install my Line out converter in the trunk for ease of adjustment. This was pretty easy. I used what is called 9 conductor speed wire...I purchased 25 ft. This wire is color coded to match aftermarket speaker wire. (White, white w/black, green, green w/ black, purple, purple w/ black, grey and grey w/ black. It also adds a blue which can be used for a remote wire to turn on amplifiers) I doubled the cable and I left the loop in the trunk and the 2 cut ends behind the head unit. See picture #3

I purchased 2-aftermarket harness’s to avoid cutting the factory ones. One Metra part number Metra 71-1784. This is a Reverse Wiring Harness for Select 1980-2005 Volkswagen autos. It is the same as our factory deck. This plugs into the factory head unit. See picture #4. I also purchased Scosche HY10B / HY10 Wiring Harness for Select 2008 - Up Hyundai and Kia Vehicles. This connects to the harness from the car. This allows all wires to be connected, as I needed. I connected the constant power (yellow), ignition power (red), ground (black) and negative illumination (orange) to one another. Now comes the tricky part. There are some features that are not capable with the aftermarket harness that I wanted. Remote antennae power from the factory harness as well as positive illumination. Easy to fix. The need for both negative and positive illumination allows you to adjust the illumination of the deck with the control next to your steering wheel. I wanted this. So what I did is in stall a “T” Tap on the wire on the factory car harness and connect it to the corresponding wire of the Metra Harness. I did the same with the Remote Antennae wire. Ask questions if you need to.

Then I connected all of the speaker wires from my 9-conductor cable to the speakers to each of the 2-aftermarket harness I bought. See picture #5 and #6. After that I like to wrap everything in electrical tape for a clean install and protect the wires. See picture #7

Reconnect all the plugs to the car harness and to the deck. Don’t forget the flashers and others for mentioned in removal.

What this is essentially doing is making a big loop to the trunk with ALL speakers and supplying an amp turn on source. Gently STUFF everything back into the whole…I used the space under the right AC vent…worked great. Check all functions of the deck before final mounting. Fader and balance. If all is good the reinstall 4 screws and replace the vents. Done. I will keep you updated on the rest of the install. I am doing a little here and there as I have a full time job. Feel free to ask any questions.

Enjoy
 

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Excellent write up! and thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have plans to work on the power this week. I am running 1/0 gauge through the firewall. This is huge and should be fun....stayed tuned.
 

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So the loop was to provide a return path from the LOC to the factory harness leading to the speakers?

Did you cut the loop in the trunk at the amp side?
 

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How does the radio antenna hook up does it have a normal motorola plug or does kia have a different plug rather than a normal antenna plug ? My tuscan had a different plug for the antenna and had to find a adapter but did find the normal plug by the passenger side kick panel.
 

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I purchased 2-aftermarket harness’s to avoid cutting the factory ones. One Metra part number Metra 71-1784. This is a Reverse Wiring Harness for Select 1980-2005 Volkswagen autos. It is the same as our factory deck. This plugs into the factory head unit. See picture #4. I also purchased Scosche HY10B / HY10 Wiring Harness for Select 2008 - Up Hyundai and Kia Vehicles. This connects to the harness from the car. This allows all wires to be connected, as I needed. I connected the constant power (yellow), ignition power (red), ground (black) and negative illumination (orange) to one another. Now comes the tricky part. There are some features that are not capable with the aftermarket harness that I wanted. Remote antennae power from the factory harness as well as positive illumination. Easy to fix. The need for both negative and positive illumination allows you to adjust the illumination of the deck with the control next to your steering wheel. I wanted this. So what I did is in stall a “T” Tap on the wire on the factory car harness and connect it to the corresponding wire of the Metra Harness. I did the same with the Remote Antennae wire. Ask questions if you need to.
So, if I read this correctly, you went to the car side of the factory harness and tapped the positive illumination with the T-Tap. For the Remote Antenna, you tapped the factory Remote Antenna?

What is the Remote Antenna? Will that be my remote turn on signal? Originally, I was planning on getting the PAC SOEM-T. I chose that model as it includes the remote turn on wire and turns the amp on by sensing current in the speaker wires. I'm just a bit confused. Am I able to use the Remote Antenna as the Amp Remote Turn on?
 

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There are several ways to get your amplifier to turn on and off remotely even if your head unit does not have a remote turn on wire. The cheap and easy way is to run the amplifier's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire. This is the wire that your car dvd player uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory or run position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the head unit and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off.
 
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