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2020 KIA Forte GT Manual
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Discussion Starter #121
Ok. So the BD chassis, to me, was decent. My recent experiences have been Subaru, VW, and Mazda. Those chassis are more noticeably rigid compared to this KIA. The bar works well. I noticed it when i was backing out of my garage as the steering feel is more responsive making a reverse right turn. As soon as i got on the on ramp, i noticed even more responsive steering and slightly less steering wheel input, and more confidence. It felt like the suspension was doing more of the work and less flexing of the body.

I can't wait to install the tie bar.

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Discussion Starter #122
Whiteline is having a sale until the end of January, so I decided to pick up a few items. Coming soon will be front control arm bushings, front control arm rear caster bushings, and roll center adjusters. Once I get the rest, I'll get on off my butt and lower the car.
 

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Whiteline is having a sale until the end of January, so I decided to pick up a few items. Coming soon will be front control arm bushings, front control arm rear caster bushings, and roll center adjusters. Once I get the rest, I'll get on off my butt and lower the car.
Part number for the roll center adjusters?
 

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Discussion Starter #125
The Brisk silver spark plugs didn't last very long. The gap had gotten so wide, they misfired. They ran very good while they lasted. The funny thing is, i have never experienced this before. The other applications had been NA Toyota or high boost Subaru but neither were a factory high compression and boost combo, like the KIA 1.6 turbo. So, for running something different from the status quo, i took the dimensions from the stock plug once again, and i am now running NGK Ruthenium plugs. I had rough idle issues with the stock plugs and lessened the gap from .031" to .028" and it fixed the issue at idle. With the Ruthenium plugs, i ran the pregap(.031") and it idles much more smoother than the stock plugs at .028". It seems to accelerate smoother at a little quicker. We'll see how these plugs run once i reach another maintenance milestone.

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The Brisk silver spark plugs didn't last very long. The gap had gotten so wide, they misfired. They ran very good while they lasted. The funny thing is, i have never experienced this before. The other applications had been NA Toyota or high boost Subaru but neither were a factory high compression and boost combo, like the KIA 1.6 turbo. So, for running something different from the status quo, i took the dimensions from the stock plug once again, and i am now running NGK Ruthenium plugs. I had rough idle issues with the stock plugs and lessened the gap from .031" to .028" and it fixed the issue at idle. With the Ruthenium plugs, i ran the pregap(.031") and it idles much more smoother than the stock plugs at .028". It seems to accelerate smoother at a little quicker. We'll see how these plugs run once i reach another maintenance milestone.

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Factory gap is .028. Recommend plugs are M45XL 2steps colder ($100-$140 for set) at gap .028 /.022-.028 for JB4 or known working aswell NGK 1422 1 step colder ( with advance auto parts 25% off code $70 for set) which come at .024 gap. Some may say can use factory ones and gap to .022. Always recommend 1 or 2 step colder when adding boost and always pre check gap on new plugs. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Factory gap is .028. Recommend plugs are M45XL 2steps colder ($100-$140 for set) at gap .022-.028 for JB4 or known working aswell NGK 1422 1 step colder ( with advance auto parts 25% off code $70 for set) which come at .024 gap. Some may say can use factory ones and gap to .022. Always recommend 1 or 2 step colder when adding boost.
That's what i gather from reading all the other forums, but if there is another way from what everyone is doing, I'm doing that.

As far as spark plug gaps are concerned, you'll be surprised how wide a tolerance they are. Check out www.kiforte.com


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That's what i gather from reading all the other forums, but if there is another way from what everyone is doing, I'm doing that.

As far as spark plug gaps are concerned, you'll be surprised how wide a tolerance they are. Check out www.kiforte.com


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Yup I use that site for factory stuff. When using a JB4 with fuel control, Race Chip, or other piggy backs, ECU tune, and going colder plugs you are most likely going find out some things need to change from those factory numbers. I enjoy reading your posts and you doing things differently. Keep up the great work. 😀
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I finally lowered the Forte. More pics to come. For now, a peek at the parts.


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Discussion Starter #132
The steering is little heavier and more straight line stability due to the added caster. The lower center of gravity, added camber (camber blots and camber plates) helped with cornering. There is definitely more bump steer since the car is lowered. I suspect when I get around installing the roll center correction kit from whiteline, it should go away.

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Discussion Starter #133
My initial run was short and just driving around the neighborhood. The commute to work was a different story. The turns and dips i normally take, the car would bottom out. My fun corners and curves, i noticed the car handled much worse. It would have more understeer and it bottomed out. Bottom out to a point it set off the stability control. Not good. So i set some time today and finished installing the roll center correction kit. The ride up front is less bumpy and i noticed better control and grip in the corners. It also alleviated the suspension from bottoming out. A must on any car lowered either springs or coilovers.



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