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Timing Chain 2017 Kia Forte 120,000 miles

1321 Views 30 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Joe Guido
Had code P0017 car running perfect, got oil change Synthetic , code still on
Car still runs perfect. Checked VVT solonoids because easy to get to, did resistance
and put 9volt to see open and close all seemd ok Cleaned and replaced. Car still runs perfect
Dicsonnect battery to clear CEL car runs 30 miles perfect no CEL then come home car still runs perfect and CEL back on
code P0017 again Car does run perfect
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Having code P0017 car runs perfect, Kia says need new timing chain $2300.00
does this sound possible/probable. Said solenoids checked out, only thing left to do is check Timing chain and at that point with 120000 miles might as well replace timing chain?

Have you changed timing chain at repair shop what was cost?
Why did you start a second thread, when you already have one going on the same problem (and which you never replied back on)?
Im a newbee forgive me i was looking for info to help me, i did not receive any thing beyond what i knew already
i then took car to kia dealer told 2300 for new timing chain (this was my reply to the first post) i was not aware of how to add the post to an existing post ill keep that in mind for the future.
I have merged the 2 threads here.
thanks, trouble getting to merged post though
That's not bad. I've seen multiple 2019s with over 250k miles on them for sale
College student with girlfriend 150 miles each way at another school😁
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At that price I would get a second opinion and have them look at the tensioner.
Thanks, I am doing that on monday. I watched a great tutorial explaining how most Dealerships for
these cars follow a test procedure which often prematurely leads to a timing chain issue. No scope no
testing of the actual advance or retard of timing just solenoid is good (maybe) must be timing chain.
Car trade in value about $4K not sure if its worth the repair
i was hoping to get actual costs you all have paid for timing chain, sprocket , tensioner replace.
i get 6 hours at 150 hour =$900 plus $300-$500 Parts $1400 sounds about right to me??
I posted what I did because there are so many airheads who show up on these forums and post problems, but never return even after others spend their time giving feedback. But it's apparent now that you're not one of them, and there's never a problem with someone not knowing how things work.

AFA your P0017 code, one important question is - do you live in a state which has any type of vehicle emissions testing (AKA safety testing)? The answer to that makes a big difference as to what your options are.
yes I am in N.J about 6 months ago i went for inspection and failed because the emissions, fuel system showed not ready. Ultimately i had Kia do a soft ware reboot. The test showed all ready and i got my inspection. However it was not easy. I have since had coils, sparkplugs, and gas system flush. Car runs well except P0017
I have 134,000+ miles on my 17 Forte and have no problems like that. Hell, I run my oil changes between 8,500 to 10,000 miles. My car hasn't really had any problems besides a crappy plug on the blower motor, trunk latch, faulty coil and a love for burning out the low beam headlights. All minor crap. I'm changing the oil today on it today as while I'm approaching 150,000 miles I may get to 7,500 mile oil changes. Mobil1 and a Mobil1 filter. I have no idea what's going on with your car, but I really don't think it's timing chain related. Some of these 2.0 engines have over 200,000 miles on them and are still running the original timing chain. You DEFINITELY need to get a second opinion. All of my miles come from rural living and a wife that has multiple doctors in multiple cities. She's all effed up!
Thanks, all in all its been an OK car. Plugs, Coils, Tires etc. Thats why i question need for timing chain. still having it diagnosed at $150 each time
Ok, then perhaps the college you attend is in another state, which doesn't have emissions testing?

I'll also ask you what the oil change history has been on this vehicle. I saw what you wrote about the one oil change, but I'm asking about the complete mileage frequency of the oil changes, or however much you know anyway. No need of exact numbers - I'm mainly interested if there were any abnormally long gaps between any oil changes.

I've had to deal with this myself for many years, and have also seen lots of reports of emissions testing problems and resolutions. That said, I've never read anything like that before. But it worked, so good for you on that.
My college sons car oil changes around 5-7K miles, however when the oil change was done due to the P0017 code it was a late oil change about 7K-8K miles
My college sons car oil changes around 5-7K miles, however when the oil change was done due to the P0017 code it was a late oil change about 7K-8K miles
also since i was not able to do what was required to clear not ready codes ie drive 50 mph for 10 min then coast to stop
and idle then do the same, then regular deriving and then do it all again a real PIA so that was a problem car currently shows INC on fuel system and catalytic converters, but no specific codes for them
That oil change history is fine, and the code is almost certainly not being set as a result of sludge in the engine.

Next question is the health of the charging system, particularly the battery. It's not clear to me if you are a DIYer, and have testing tools. If so, have you checked the battery with a meter yourself?

Don't waste time trying to reset the monitors, because one active OBD code will stop the emissions test. When the CEL is off and there are no active or permanent codes, the monitors will get to the ready state on their own, after the required amount of drive cycles takes place.
Thanks for info, no i have not tested the battery, it is original to the car 6 years old. The car starts fine and shows no symptoms of a battery issue. I brought up battery to Kia service they said has nothing to do with P0017 and did not test it
I continue to be amazed (appalled actually) how bad so many of these outfits are. ANY code is electrical. The charging system is what provides electricity to the vehicle. I guess 2 + 2 doesn't equal 4 for them. Sure, the code might not be caused by a faulty charging system, but to NOT just automatically do a simple load test on it? However, they tell you to do a chain job for $2300, with barely any diagnostics at all. Wow, they are SO WEAK.

And just an FYI that starting fine doesn't confirm that a battery is completely healthy. And a code being set can be a possible symptom of a bad battery - certainly not always or even most of the time, but a possibility nevertheless.

I take it you don't have a multimeter, so definitely take it somewhere to have the charging system tested. And if it's not too inconvenient, you might want to test it at 2 different shops or auto parts stores, because there have been cases reported where certain testing machines don't catch every issue with the battery. Again, I'm not saying this is what's causing the code to be set on your vehicle, just that it's a very basic, standard test to do, early in the diagnostic process.
Thanks, I do have a multimeter and know how to test the car, however it is at a new shop now so i do not have access
i will make sure that they test the battery. The difficulty is finding honesty, the shop cant stay open and pay techs if all they do is Battery replacement, so they screw people to keep afloat. Its sad that is why i do all of my own work as much as i can. I should have checked the battery my self or had the auto parts check it.
So I have authorized timing chain replacement. Using genuine Kia parts which is required for guarantee cost $1,800. Ouch but does not seem like I have options. Changed oil every 5 K miles occasionally 7K guess it was too much. Last Kia for me
Picked up car today $1910.00 for timing chain and exhaust VVT gear (pin was sheared)
Seems to be a common problem. I will sell the car to carmax for $6000 to get my $1900 back
And a few thousand for a new car (won’t be a Kia)
Well it's fixed now, why take a loss? Car market is on fire right now, you'll end up with something worse for the same money. I'd keep driving it.
I think I will go new, get what I can and put it as a down payment on another car
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