So does this mod take away the annoying overly sensitive gas pedal?

 

Makes it more sensitive to your foot pressure...

 

Are there any possible long term negatives from doing this mod?

 

Here's my suggestion to those of you having trouble. With the multimeter connected, press the gas pedal. Does the value go up? If so, you may have a bad TPS (providing it's over 1.0v at idle). If not, check the wire you're probing. KIA may use different wiring for different models, so test the other wires too.

As far as long-term troubles go, I wouldn't worry if the voltage is under 1.0v. If it's over, your service engine light may come on and you could be running a slightly advanced timing.

 

Warranty implications, TPS adjustment

I'd like to try this, but will this effect the warranty?

G

 

I'd like to try this, but will this effect the warranty?

G

Being silly....how would they know?

Being serious...No.

You are not altering anything...you are adjusting a switch. Same as if you adjust a belt that is squealing or adjusting your headlights.

If you manage to burn up your car while adjusting the APS because you forgot to turn off the ignition switch then yes, it will affect the warranty...lol.

 

Can this be done with the key in the "On" position or does the engine need to be running?

 

Key switch off

I highly recommend do all of the work with the key switch OFF. Then turn the key on and retest voltage. If it needs another slight movement turn the key off to make more adjustments. Then turn back on to retest until you are satisfied.

If the voltage changes or isn't consistent when the key is on it will set the engine light. If you don't have a code reader that can scan a CAN system you will have to take it to a mechanic or dealer to reset the engine light. About $80

 

I highly recommend do all of the work with the key switch OFF. Then turn the key on and retest voltage. If it needs another slight movement turn the key off to make more adjustments. Then turn back on to retest until you are satisfied.

If the voltage changes or isn't consistent when the key is on it will set the engine light. If you don't have a code reader that can scan a CAN system you will have to take it to a mechanic or dealer to reset the engine light. About $80

Wow, I can't believe I forgot to include that. Yes, the engine should be off while adjusting. Has anyone tried it with the key in the "run" position with the engine off? That might prevent the service engine light issue.

You can always buy an Ultragauge to clear the SES light

 

First, thanks a lot for this mod !!!

After I plugged my voltmeter to read the voltage correctly, I removed the fuel pump fuse and then turn the ignition on ... I had a reading of .77v. Then I turned the ignition switch off and loosen all the 5 screws ... Then I put the ignition on again and adjust the voltage to .93v by retighting the screws ... while doing this, you see the voltage changing constantly until you reach the end of the screws ... this is why it's practicle to have the ignition on to see the voltage reading changing while screwing. Once everything's done... plug again the fuse for the fuel pump, and start the engine. You'll see a difference of 0.02 to 0.03v. I mean that with the ignition on (engine off) I had a reading of 0.93 and with the engine on, I have 0.96. It changed a little bit.

Made this mod 3 weeks ago, and didn't get any check engine light. My only concern is that I changed my light pulley, so I think that 0.96v is too much for me , gonna try 0.88v /0.90v later on to see if It gives a difference. Is there other car owners with the light pulley changed that tried this mod ?

This was the method I used to adjust it ! Hope it can helps others those who had interrogations ... (for the fuel pump, I always remove it when I have to put the ignition switch on oftenly while doing testing-this is why in this mod, I removed it)

Sorry for my english folks !

 

i am wondering how to set the Multi Meter. I hooked a needle to the orange wire part and hooked up the multi meter, started the motor and every time get no reading it stays at 0.00, is my multi meter set on the wrong setting? or are my connections maybe not getting good contact? I have the multimeter set at DCV 20

 

I'm getting ready to do this mod soon and have a question about the multimeter too. Why can't you just put the alligator clips from the positive wire on the multimeter directly on the orange wire? Why does it need a pin or needle? I've never used a multimeter before ....

 

Step 3: Insert pin or needle into the third wire from the left (orange). When inserting, make sure that you stick the needle where the wire comes into the connector (the side with the yellow retainer)- not the side that plugs into the TPS sensor. This is called back-probing.

gtman55, one would rather not pierce the insulation of the wire in question so by using a pin/needle on the back of a terminal or plug, the pin/needle hits the actual metal connecting pin from the back where the wire attaches to it and your DMM connects at that point. Here's a visual:

Back-Probing Terminals — WSU

 

alright got that figured out. it read o.79 to 0.80. but on to the next problem. I loosened the 5 screws I believe to be the ones. and I have no idea where to "rotate" and what to rotate???? need some help here

 

Go back to post #1 and look at the 6th picture down...that is the switch you are looking at. There are 5 screws -- the 4 lower screws need to be loosened and the top right (5th) screw needs to be REALLY loosened or removed completely (it is a set screw). Then the switch rotates at the top -- in the picture the top is where the wire connector goes. The top will go left and right maybe 1/4". As positioned in the car you move the top to the front of the car (left) to increase voltage and to the rear of the car (right) to decrease voltage. Remember not to just position it full forward as the voltage will exceed 1.0 volts and your ECU will think you have the accelerator pedal pushed.

 

i finally managed to do it. First time set it to 97-98 it was really complicated to get it to stick to what i wanted it to. anyway, I drove it found little to no difference whatsoever. So i tried to set it to 94, only managing to get it at 91-92. Drove it, still I don't think I feel any difference at all.

 

is it only the 94 sweet spot where you feel a difference? or is it just me?

 

Manual or auto tranny? Manual owners feel the difference more than auto owners.

 

Just did this, set it to .95 WOW What a difference! I can't believe I've been killing my ankles in traffic this entire time. Thanks for this post!

For people asking how to get their multimeters to work - get a 9 volt battery and hook it up to the clips, change the settings until the display reads 9.00 (+- .01).

 

Just did this, set it to .95 WOW What a difference! I can't believe I've been killing my ankles in traffic this entire time. Thanks for this post!

For people asking how to get their multimeters to work - get a 9 volt battery and hook it up to the clips, change the settings until the display reads 9.00 (+- .01).

Ouch!!! Please don't do this...the switches are micro switches and the ECU can be sensitive to large voltage inputs (it is only suposed to read a few volts at most) and you don't know what amperage you could shoot through it! I'm glad it worked for you but I don't recommend it to be done this way.

Never mind I think you are talking about adjusting your voltmeter...correct?

 

However, I probably just expected it to change the way it drives entirely. I.e. more like my brothers Audi a3. But maybe my expectations are to high, after all its only a Kia.

 

going to try this mod asap on my 2.0 manual - hope it helps me with getting my car off the line quicker\smooth.

just to confirm - this mod is 100% safe - don't want to damage my 2 week old Koup

 

Been driving mine since originally adjusting it and no problems. Haven't read a single post about anyone having issues with this, the only one that had problems was one poster that forgot to reconnect his harness after adjusting and got a CEL/SES light...LoL!

 

Just did it myself yesterday, very happy with it
I was stalling quite alot and almost to the point of frustration, now I sit and watch my friend deal with the same thing and he's been driving his for a year
Top notch write up too, very concise

 

Here's my question. I have an SX with an automatic. From a standing start the throttle seems to have little free play. At speed though, there are times it seems like I'll press the throttle and nothing happens until I press it quite a bit more. That's when I notice a dead spot. Will this help in those situations?

 

This mod will help with the standing start issue -- give you more feel-of-control in relation to engine reaction to foot movement.

The at-speed problem you describe I believe is not fixable -- it is because the tranny is in high gear for the best MPG so the tranny holds it until you push the pedal more. Notice how the engine almost lugs like a manual tranny equipped car @ 40-45 MPH when the auto tranny is in 5th (or sixth) gear and you use just a little throttle...that's why the autos are now getting as good or better MPG than the manuals.

 

Stupid question - before I damage something

How do I remove the connector from the unit - tried to pull it off but its not budging - I have the 2.0L

Thanks

 

haha, i had the same issue, I couldn't get it off no matter what! I just back probed it while it was connected, not too difficult.

 

if i remember correctly, its just the yellow part that pops out, you should find a clip (probably one on each side of the yellow part.

 

kjinxx2 would you please explain your back probe way...would be my other option if I don't get it off using noodile's method,

Thanks

 

The original post details exactly how to back-probe, if you leave the connector on the TPS, you have to stick the pin into the 3rd wire's slot from the front (orange wire) you then connect your multimeter to the pin.

 

It's called sarcasm my friend, perhaps what I said was uncalled for, but your dig at Kia as a whole is just as uncalled for, hence my comment.

 

Well I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone when I used the term "only a Kia" I merely meant that it isn't at the level (yet) of other well known auto manufacturers. therefore I'd like to apologize for being rather hasty with my use of words.

 

I do apologize if I offended you, or anybody else, as well, cheers*

 

Group hug....everybody put their arms around their monitor and give it a big squeeze...LoL!