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Traction control light, limp mode, Crank sensor code HELP

754 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  kiaguy007
Hey everyone new here on the forum, first off I know European cars inside and out but my Fiancée’s 2016 Kia Forte Sedan 1.8 Automatic (120k km) has been causing me some headaches.

Symptoms:
-Car was acting weird while driving and the rpm kept jumping around from zero to what ever it wanted but engine revs we stable driving
-Eventually threw a traction control light, limp mode (3K rpm) and then finally a crank position sensor code P0335
-Even during this time starting and stopping wasn’t a issue.
-When I would restart the car it acted like nothing happened no CEL or traction light
-when fault occurs with TSC light on and limp mode motor changed noise, turn off then on then was fine until it did it again.

What I did:
1. Installed a new sensor from carquest, car was fine for a week then the same thing happened
2. Replaced the sensor again this time with a OEM KIA part and same thing happened after 4 days
3. Tested all three sensors and ohm’s them with a multimeter all tested around 700-900 none tested open
4. Cleaned the electrical connection
5. Checked wiring for corrosion or nicks and nothing found
6. Checked power at the connection during cranking and nothing irregular (i don’t know kias proper diag specs for this so would like info if possible.

Any help or diagnose ideas would be appreciated
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Are you reading the same code AFTER clearing/erasing codes?
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Are you reading the same code AFTER clearing/erasing codes?

If you clear it it’s gone until it’s triggered again, doesn’t come back immediately.

That’s the weird thing the TSC and limp mode will happen randomly, but won’t allways trigger a CEL for crank sensor unless your driving it for a extended period under limp mode. Then once you cycle the key the CEL goes away like it never happened.

Crank sensor was the only fault present when you catch the CEL on.
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Hey everyone new here on the forum, first off I know European cars inside and out but my Fiancée’s 2016 Kia Forte Sedan 1.8 Automatic (120k km) has been causing me some headaches.

Symptoms:
-Car was acting weird while driving and the rpm kept jumping around from zero to what ever it wanted but engine revs we stable driving
-Eventually threw a traction control light, limp mode (3K rpm) and then finally a crank position sensor code.
-Even during this time starting and stopping wasn’t a issue.
-When I would restart the car it acted like nothing happened no CEL or traction light
-when fault occurs with TSC light on and limp mode motor changed noise, turn off then on then was fine until it did it again.

What I did:
1. Installed a new sensor from carquest, car was fine for a week then the same thing happened
2. Replaced the sensor again this time with a OEM KIA part and same thing happened after 4 days
3. Tested all three sensors and ohm’s them with a multimeter all tested around 700-900 none tested open
4. Cleaned the electrical connection
5. Checked wiring for corrosion or nicks and nothing found
6. Checked power at the connection during cranking and nothing irregular (i don’t know kias proper diag specs for this so would like info if possible.

Any help or diagnose ideas would be appreciated
You know, I had a friend 12 years ago that, at 65, was having some problems in the bedroom. He told me he was limp and having problems with getting erections. So anyway he took Viagra and he told me it totally changed him. He told me he would be rigid hard for 4 to 5 hours straight and also that he kept the working girls at the Apple Inn on the Louisiana Bayou, over employed. So check out Viagra. I think those limp woes will be era"dick"ated. Take care fellow Kia owner!
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We’ll not exactly sure where to administer or the outcome Viagra would do to the poor Forte 😂 Don’t think it will help this situation haha.


You know, I had a friend 12 years ago that, at 65, was having some problems in the bedroom. He told me he was limp and having problems with getting erections. So anyway he took Viagra and he told me it totally changed him. He told me he would be rigid hard for 4 to 5 hours straight and also that he kept the working girls at the Apple Inn on the Louisiana Bayou, over employed. So check out Viagra. I think those limp woes will be era"dick"ated. Take care fellow Kia owner!
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It would help us GUESS at what your problem is if you'd provide MORE information. It's already nearly impossible diagnosing over the internet without being able to look at, touch, or hear the car...

You keep writing that it has a code...WHAT is the OBDII code (or codes) you get?
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It would help us GUESS at what your problem is if you'd provide MORE information. It's already nearly impossible diagnosing over the internet without being able to look at, touch, or hear the car...

You keep writing that it has a code...WHAT is the OBDII code (or codes) you get?
P0335 crank position sensor malfunction, forgot to add it to the original post.
P0335 crank position sensor malfunction.
P0335 crank position sensor malfunction, forgot to add it to the original post.
But it’s not like a consistent fault. Goes away for a while, comes back randomly, if you turn off the key and cycle it again it acts like it didn’t exist, I had to catch the CEL right there and then because the next key cycle it’s gone.
Did you check all these areas:

Font Number Screenshot Circle Document
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Yes I have.

  1. Crank sensors test fine
  2. Harness seems fine, no visual defects, voltage seems fine, shaked the car like a angry gorilla when it was running and couldn't remake the issue.
  3. Same as above
  4. inconsistent, normally a broken reluctor ring/signal plate has a repetive fault, and crank no start issues which we dont have
  5. Doesnt apply, applies to crank no start.
  6. Battery tests fine same with charging state.
Do these cars have weird ground, trans or cluster issues?
BIG UPDATE so gave up and sent it to Kia, they think it needs a PCM.

Has anyone dealt with PCM swaps here? I got a quote of 3k for a new one or online for under $200

Are they plug and play or do they require coding?
2
Installation
CAUTION:When replacing the ECM, the vehicle equipped with the immobilizer must be performed procedure as below.
[In the case of installing used ECM]
  1. Perform "ECM Neutral mode" procedure with GDS.

    (Refer to IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM Body Electrical System - "Immobilizer System")

  2. After finishing "ECM Neutral mode", perform "Key teaching" procedure with GDS.
(Refer to Body Electrical System - "Immobilizer System")
[In The Case Of Installing New ECM]
Perform "Key teaching" procedure with GDS.
(Refer to IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM
CAUTION:When replacing the ECM, the vehicle equipped with the smart key system (Button start) must be performed procedure as below.
[In The Case Of Installing Used ECM]

  1. Perform "ECM Neutral mode" procedure with GDS.

    (Refer to SMART KEY SYSTEM

  2. After finishing "ECM Neutral mode", insert the key (or press the start button) and turn it to the IGN ON and OFF position. Then the ECM learns the smart key information automatically.

[In the case of installing new ECM]
Insert the key (or press the start button) and turn it to the IGN ON and OFF position. Then the ECM learns the smart key information automatically.
  1. Install in the reverse order of removal.

    ECM bracket installation bolt:


    9.8 ~ 11.8 N.m (1.0 ~ 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 ~ 8.7 lb-ft)
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ECM Problem Inspection Procedure
  1. TEST ECM GROUND CIRCUIT: Measure resistance between ECM and chassis ground using the backside of ECM harness connector as ECM side check point. If the problem is found, repair it.

    Specification: Below 1Ω

  2. TEST ECM CONNECTOR: Disconnect the ECM connector and visually check the ground terminals on ECM side and harness side for bent pins or poor contact pressure. If the problem is found, repair it.
  3. If problem is not found in Step 1 and 2, the ECM could be faulty. If so, make sure there were no DTC's before swapping the ECM with a new one, and then check the vehicle again. If DTC's were found, examine this first before swapping ECM.
  4. RE-TEST THE ORIGINAL ECM: Install the original ECM (may be broken) into a known-good vehicle and check the vehicle. If the problem occurs again, replace the original ECM with a new one. If problem does not occur, this is intermittent problem (Refer to BASIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE
VIN Programming Procedure

VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is a number that has the vehicle's information (Maker, Vehicle Type, Vehicle Line/Series, Body Type, Engine Type, Transmission Type, Model Year, Plant Location and so forth. For more information, please refer to the group DTC INDEX When replacing an ECM, the VIN must be programmed in the ECM. If there is no VIN in ECM memory, the fault code (DTC P0630) is set.

CAUTION:The programmed VIN cannot be changed. When writing the VIN, confirm the VIN carefully
  1. Select "VIN Writing" function in "Vehicle S/W Management".
  2. Select "Write VIN" in "ID Register".
    Fig. 21: Screen Display - VIN Writing Function In Vehicle S/W Management
    Fig. 21:  Screen Display - VIN Writing Function In Vehicle S/W Management
  3. Input the VIN.
    WARNING:Before inputing the VIN, confirm the VIN again because the programmed VIN cannot be changed.
    Fig. 22: Screen Display - Write VIN In ID Register
    Fig. 22:  Screen Display - Write VIN In ID Register
  4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then back ON.
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That's the info I have for the 2016 Forte
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Looking into it a bit more and what you have said. This car “doesn’t” have an immobilizer it’s the basic bitch model.

It seems there’s no coding required other then the “option” to copy vin numbers.

If that’s the case couldnt I just swap in the same pn and spec ecu? Or does copying the vin effect drivability?
Going to order a ecu that’s the same year and spec as hers and fuck around and find out.

That’s a price difference over $2900 Canadian if that’s the case.
BIG UPDATE so gave up and sent it to Kia, they think it needs a PCM.
....
Did they share with you what makes them 'think' that, and also what diagnostic testing they did?
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