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2016 Forte 1.8
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 Forte sedan 2.0
87,800 miles
A few times, it didn't want to start- cranks and cranks, finally fires
Today, after shut-off to get gas, it happened. Wife panicked ☹
No CEL.
Feels just like carb cars that are flooded
Will check with scan gauge today.

Any "usual suspects"?
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, Wagner-Tuning Intercooler, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S1 Intake
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6,814 Posts
I'd suspect the Battery first. Read voltage while cranking. If less than 9 volts get ready to replace.
 

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Check:

Ignition coil pack/s: Rubber boot/insulation can have cracks/worn out thinned area causing arcs outside of iridium spark plug. The wire harness/pigtail plugs, connections.

Iridium spark plug/s: improper gap, Age & condition, worn out/fouled, going out.

Fuel pump: dirty, clogged, malfunctioning. Check the wire harnesses/pigtail plugs, connections.

Fuel injectors: clogged, dirty, wires, harnesses, pigtail plugs/connections?

Fuel cap/gas cap: loose, worn out, deteriorating rubber seal, finally no longer locking.

Fuel: dirty, old Fuel in tank.

Use techron Fuel system cleaner. It's approved by Kia/Hyundai.

Check & verify the Fuel pump relay/fuses.

Recheck battery & alternator.

Check & verify battery cables are in clean. Free if any rust/corrosion & not loose. 3 big 3 locations.

Hope this helps. Let us know what it was & fix.

Post pics too.
 

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'21 Forte FE 6-Speed
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1,905 Posts
at battery
V = 12.65
start V = 10.8
running V = 14.2
Sounds about right. When was the last time this car got spark plugs?
 

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2016 Forte 1.8
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Battery cables just cleaned and tightened.
Again, it cranks just fine.
I use fuel cleaner several times a year.
It feels like it's not getting gas sort of.
The few times it happened, was while car was hot, and shut off briefly.
 

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2016 Forte 1.8
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342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fuel system cleaner
Hmmm... I don't see a Fuel pump relay.
I'll have wifey make sure she hears the Fuel pump prime the system when she turns key to "on".
You know, the whirrrrrr-click sound.
(I hardly ever drive this car)
 

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.... A few times, it didn't want to start- cranks and cranks, finally fires ....
Sporadic issues like this are typically the most difficult to diagnose, because testing is impossible if the condition can't be reliably replicated on demand. But for this one, there are 2 VERY easy tests to try, which MIGHT help figure out what the root cause of the issue is.

This testing can produce valid and helpful results, only if your wife understands exactly when and how to try it. First thing is to establish the baseline number of cranks for a normal start. Make it simple and easy by telling her that a crank is one "rrr" sound. So if this vehicle typically never takes more than 3 cranks, that sound would be rrr--rrr--rrr. And if it normally always starts by 3 cranks or fewer, then use 5 (i.e. +2) as the number cranks that indicates a long-starting condition is taking place.

Once she understands what she's listening for, the rest is easy. Tell her to immediately stop cranking and turn the key to off, anytime she hears that magic number of cranks. Next step is for her to push the gas pedal all the way down to the floor, start cranking the engine again, and make sure to keep pushing the pedal to the floor while doing the cranking. Pedal to the floor while cranking is clear-flood-mode, and might resolve certain issues such as leaking injectors or evap system problems. Tell her not to continue cranking beyond the magic number with the pedal down, or repeating that same test again. If clear-flood-mode doesn't work immediately, then it's not part of the answer to the problem resolution. And you wrote that it will start eventually anyway, so you don't want to create a false positive test result when the vehicle eventually does start.

If clear-flood-mode doesn't work, then the other test to try immediately after that is to do additional priming of the fuel pump, by turning the key to the on position 3 times prior to cranking the engine. Very simple - key on for 2 seconds (on not start), then key off. That sequence gets repeated 3 times, and then start cranking the engine. If doing this produces a good, fast start, then that's the one to try on future no-starts. If this (or clear-flood-mode) consistently results in a fast start, after getting a long-crank condition, then that result should be very helpful in diagnosing the actual problem.
 

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2021 Forte GT Limited
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327 Posts
I had a friend with an older Elantra they was doing this randomly until it just would crank and crank but not start. and it was a pita to diagnose. Sort of a replace and pray situation. I ended up replacing the fuel pump which solved it after also doing the battery and alternator, even adjusting the clutch engagement switch might be the fix, TBH.
 

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2016 Forte 1.8
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
kiaguy007: ✔ I now "feel" it's NO gas that's the issue. If she doesn't hear the fuel pump prime, don't crank it. Turn off. Try again.

anonimaus: is the fuel pump accessible under rear seat? Or is it drop-the-tank? (2016 Forte)
What is $$$$ approx. for the part?

Is there no Schrader valve in the fuel rail? To check for fuel
 

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2021 Forte GT Limited
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kiaguy007: ✔ I now "feel" it's NO gas that's the issue. If she doesn't hear the fuel pump prime, don't crank it. Turn off. Try again.

anonimaus: is the fuel pump accessible under rear seat? Or is it drop-the-tank? (2016 Forte)
What is $$$$ approx. for the part?

Is there no Schrader valve in the fuel rail? To check for fuel
I’m not sure about the fuel pump accessibility on your model but hopefully rear seat. What I did was get one from a wrecker. A new aftermarket one isn’t too pricey- like $100. If you Google I’m sure there will be someone who’s done the job and Youtube’d it.
 

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'21 Forte FE 6-Speed
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Hmmm
Just checked scanner- it shows P0441 which seems unrelated, it's an emission code 😐
Not unrelated at all, and could actually be your problem.
That's an EVAP purge valve code. The purge valve essentially lets evaporated gas fumes from your tank into your engine to be burned when it's running at specific times. If it's stuck open, it could be letting those fumes into the intake when cranking, which could cause a rich condition that could be the cause of your longer starts.
That would explain this exactly:
Today, after shut-off to get gas, it happened. Wife panicked ☹
Feels just like carb cars that are flooded
Filling the tank could have pushed all of the fumes from tank into the intake through a stuck purge valve, meaning the air fuel ratio in the intake was super rich. That would cause the "flooded" feeling.
 
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