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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Re-posted from http://www.forteforums.com/forums/koup-wheels-tires/788-suspension-upgrades-6.html#post24924

This is about the Ultra Racing bars found here Forte/Koupe 2009 | Ultra Racing Canada


I installed all the bars myself... took about 5 hours overall. It is not too difficult. No instructions come with the bars I only had the pics on the Ultra Racing website to help me.

Here are a few helpful tips in case others decide to do it themselves.

- For the lower front bars you need to jack up the front of the car, and for the lower rear bars jack the rear. I also recommend using a torque ratchet/wrench to make sure bolts are tightened enough. I did not even need to take the wheels off.

1) Front Lower Bar - 2 Point. This one is relatively easy, only two 19mm bolts to unbolt and re-bolt. There is a 17mm bolt on the other side though (above), that may or may not turn at the same time. For me it did on one side and not on the other. If it does use a 17mm wrench to block it on the top of the bolt.

2) Front Lower Bar - 4 Point. Relatively easy as well. You need 19mm and 14mm sockets. The 14mm bolts come off easily. The 19mm are tougher, but no other bolt will turn at the same time on top so no other key is needed. The only tricky part is when installing the 4-point bar, install all 4 attach points and do not tighten the bolts. If one is tightened the last one won't be perfectly centered and it will be very difficult or impossible to bolt on. Tighten all bolts gradually so they all come up level together.

3) Front Strut Bar. The easiest of them all. Simply unbolt two 14mm bolts on each side and re-bolt. You will need a 14mm wrench for one of the bolts because the ratchet won't fit it (unless you also remove the plastic cover close to the windshield, but I thought it was quicker with the wrench.

4) Rear Anti-Roll Bar. This one is tricky. With no instructions it took me a while to figure out how it fit. A hex key is needed. The three rear bars have bolts, washers and other parts provided with the bar (as opposed to the front bars for which you only re-use bolts already part of the car) and you need to figure out what to do with them. This rear roll bar also had circular plates. These go under the coil spring, so you need to take the rear springs out. (If I had known I would not have installed my Eibach kit yesterday because I needed to take the rear springs off again today). There is another guide on this forum on how to install the Eibach kit so I won't repeat these instructions, but read the posts carefully if you find that thread, one of the posters said it was easier to take the lower shock bolt off this way you don't even need to take off the wheels and that's what I did. So the while plates go on the bottom of the coil springs where they are usually seated. Look at both sides of the plates they are different, the side with the small hollows for the bolts goes up. Put the bolts in the holes, then install the bar underneath the coil spring assembly and bolt on the nut and washer under. Then reinstall the springs and re-bolt the shock.

5) Rear Lower Bar. Fairly easy as well. Only two bolts (12mm if I remember correctly) to remove on each side and re-bolt the bar with the provided bolts and washers (the original bolts are not used afterward). The only thing I wasn't sure about is when you remove the two bolts a bracket comes off. Not sure if the bracket was meant to be put back on (sandwiched between the frame and the bar), but I ended up not putting the bracket back on. The other thing I am not sure about is the washers, should I have put one on each side of the bar, and if so, the small or the large one on top? I ended up stacking the two washers on top of each other, the smaller one closer to the bolt head.

6) Rear Strut Bar. Somewhat tricky. Bolts are provided with this one too. The bar goes on the far end of the trunk close to the back of the rear seats, behind the trim. The picture on the website is not too clear but there are two existing holes high up on each side. The tough part is to get the bolt in the hole from the other side. There may be better ways of doing this, but I actually taped two wrenches together (a single wrench was not long enough) and taped the bolt against the wrench with the head of the bolt against the wrench. Then I inserted this thing in the opening pointing toward the side of the car and directed the bolt toward the hole until I got it in. Then put the nut on immediately when you have it in so the bolt does not leave the hole. A long bracket instead of two wrenches taped together would have been fine too. Whatever you use, make sure it is long enough and thin enough to fit in the opening. Also, I used masking tape so it is easy to pull the wrenches off when the nut is secured, but make sure you use enough tape to avoid the bolt falling down inside the body of the car (I lost one this way and was unable to recover it, fortunately I had an almost identical bolt and nut handy and used that one). Whenever you are ready, hold the bolt sticking out facing you in the trunk with a finger and unscrew the nut, then put the bar in taking care of not pushing the bolt back in. Let the bar sit on the bolt to add weight on it and prevent the bolt from falling back. Then insert the washer and tighten the nut. You see that most of the instructions above are intended to taking steps to reduce the chances of losing the bolt inside the body of the car. It is really a pain in the a** to get the bolt in the hole from the other side of the sheet metal, the opening is small and you have about a foot of distance to go from a 90 degrees angle. If someone has a better way of doing this I would love to hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are already a few pics here http://www.forteforums.com/forums/forte-koup-pictures-videos/1951-i-love-my-forte.html, but that was before installing the springs and bars. I will post more soon, I promise :), just need to clean the car before, there are too many bugs on the front grille and bumpers etc...

Handling is much, much tighter after installing the bars. I just came back from a Sherbrooke-Montreal-Sherbrooke drive today and had the opportunity to test it more. It is really awesome. Highway exits can be taken at relatively high speed and you almost don't feel anything... changing lanes quickly is also very easy and the car responds nicely. I still have not pushed the car to its limits yet. The car just sticks to the road and stays level to the road all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here are pictures of the installed bars.
Pic 1 = Rear strut bar
Pics 2&3 = View of the rear anti-roll bar and rear lower bar
Pic 4 = Rear lower bar from the side of the car
Pic 5 = Front lower bar 4 point
Pic 6 = Front lower bar 2 points (near), front lower bar 4 points (mid) and rear lower bar (far)
Pics 7 &8 = Front strut bar
 

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Does it use two or one bolt connection for under the hood strut brace? In the picture it looks like one bolt which would be quite the strain on that single bolt on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes the Ultra racing front strut bar is 2 bolts on each side. 3 bolts is possible better, but in my opinion two is more than sufficient. I agree one bolt only would have put too much strain on the connection. The second bolt is difficult to see because it is closer to the windshield underneath some plastic panel (a ratchet won't fit for that bolt, a wrench is needed)
 

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Thanks to coch's excellent write-up, I finished installing my bars today.

for the front lower two-point bar, you remove this bolt.


for the front 4-pt cross brace, you remove these bolts...


for the rear lower bar, you remove these bolts and bracket. I also didn't install the original bracket back onto the body.



for the rear anti-roll bar, lift the back end up and unbolt the bottom of the shock.
Let the rear subrame drop and remove the springs.


place the plate into the sping perch area as shown (note the countersink side faces up)



drop your bolts in


using a 6mm allen key and 17mm socket, begin to fasten all your hardware.





 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Koup SXR, it's much better with your pictures. I wanted to take some as well but did not have time as I wanted to finish before sundown and barely made it.
 

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how do the cars feel now? is there a difference? awesome pics and write up.
 

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I really like this write up. Good information. Can anyone tell me about the ground clearance? I've already lowered my car, and I've been known to drag while driving slowly over some speed-bumps. It looks to me that this kit hangs a little lower than the rest of the underbody.
 
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plenty of clearance. i have the bars underneath and my car is lowered and i dont have a problem. you technically only need the rear sway bar and the rear strut bar for the back. i only know cause i called up ultraracing. and if you need help installing the rear strut bar, they added a video on youtube after i asked for directions lol
 

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The bars that may be of concern are the front 2-point and 4-point seeing as your car is already lowered. The rear 4-point and anti-roll bar are not a problem.

The two front lower bars I found to add a significant amount of stiffness when cornering. I tried the same twisty road (incl. same 18" wheel/tires one summer afternoon) with the 2 front lower bars on and off and I could definitely feel the difference. ‘Tight’ is an understatement when those bad boys are on.

I just keep an eye out for raised sewer covers and asphalt imperfections.

Here you can see how low the front bars are.
 
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