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My current mods:
  • Platypus front plate mount- looks awesome, great Quality.
  • Kia 3.0 K Logos - I screwed up the paint on the front bumper when installing these, grrrrr. Also no need to remove the steering wheel logo to install, it's an overlay just like the wheel ones are. I ended up cutting off the front badge after I screwed up the paint around the logo despite using the tape around method. Also I'm not a fan of the Blue as it doesn't match the paint at all even though they say it's Deep Blue Sea. I ended up buying the Chrome/Black version for the front. It looks better than the black/blue one but I with the chrome was slightly tinted like the OEM grill surround is. I think I can do that with a spray on tint. Perhaps a future update on that.
  • Lowered on Eibach's E10-42-046-02-22- 1.25 inch drop F&R is what it measured out to be after settling(a month). Rides smooth like stock but less body roll in corners. I like but could be a tad lower.
  • Racechip GTS - Butt dyno can feel the difference for sure even at the stock setting of 5 out of 7 on 87 octane. I keep the stock plugs as this is a daily driver and doen't see boost most of then time anyway. I did go to 93 octane and did some street testing. Basically 40-60mph goes from 3.20 seconds stock to 2.6 seconds at level 7 on 93 octane.
  • ADD W1 V3.3 catch can - Just installed I'm on the fence with this right now. Install was not ideal but I made it work, I think....
  • LED foglight bulbs - Looks and functions so much better. No resistors needed with the one I bought.
  • LED switch back front turn signal assemblies- As seen all over ebay, not just the bulbs. I like them, they need to be seen in person to fully appreciate the function.
  • GFB Mach 2 BOV(T9111) & Whistling Trumpet(5702) - I just miss the blow off sound from my former car and removing the plumb back pipe just wasn't enough for me. This is so much louder then the OEM BOV with hose removed. The Whistling Trumpet sounds comically funny but I am now getting used to it. Of course sounds clips would be nice to share so I'll work on that.
  • LED back up bulbs - Windows are tinted so it's hard to see back there at night and the backup cam also looks pretty grainy from lack of light on the stock bulbs. I went with a cheap Amazon set as they were recommend online by another forum for Subarus. I had a low bar set for these but I'd say they are ok. Improvement from stock and def a better color but not a huge difference in brightness.
  • Boost gauge - I wanna see what the Racechip GTS is changing the boost to on each power level. I bought a Depo Racing Boost Gauge. Still need to fully install this. I am waiting on the SXTH Vacuum Dist Block to plumb in the vacuum/boost line.
  • SXTH Short Ram intake - This was a fantastic mod. The spooling sound of the turbo is now there and it sounds awesome! The quality of this seems pretty darn good too. While I was there I drilled a hole in the engine cover for the ADD W1 breather so now it looks a lot better and not flopping around.
  • SXTH Vacuum Dist Block V2.0 - I'll use this to plumb in the boost gauge. Also as a reviewer pointed out this could be used as a port to clean the intake valves. Initial quality check on this is a poor one. For $49 I definitely over paid. The block is not CNC machined. It's a poorly injection molded part with a tap run into the two ports after injection molding as there are still burrs from the tap in the holes that should have been removed. I say poorly molded as there is shrinkage all over the part that make it extremely not flat. A CNC'd part would have been much better in this regard. I have designed/made molded/machined parts for a good part of my career so I know what I am talking about here. The question is will it function. I'll have to remove the burrs and try it out. But for now, and for $49 this is a do not buy in my opinion.
  • LED Plate Lights - Bulb type is 921 and the ones I bought from super bright LEDs seem to work great. Whiter light was the goal, mission accomplished.
  • LED Rear Turn Signal bulbs - I originally bought PY21W(aka 7507) bulbs as this is what the manual says is in there but they are wrong. The PY21W(aka 7507) has an offset to the pins they are not 180 degrees they are 150 degrees apart. Also they need to be can bus otherwise you'll get the fast flash and light out indication. The bulb in the socket is 180 degrees which the internet tells me is an 1156(aka BA15S) in Amber color with can bus. The ones I have linked worked perfect, for now anyway.
  • Manual Shifter mods - The stock setup is soo floopy. I installed the Boomba Racing Short Shift Trans Adapter, Not sure it was needed but it did make it shorter and better shift engagement. It was still floppy after the install though. So I added SXTH Shifter Cable End Bushing Kit and Boomba Racing Trans Bracket Bushings. This stiffened it right up and now feels like it should. I must note though for some reason 4th gear sometimes has a bit of trouble going in. It's getting better the more I use it but it was something I noticed. Not sure what part(s) is causing it. I have bought the Shift base bushings from SXTH but I haven't put them in yet.
  • Torque Pro Display Mod - Set this up and made a custom background. Pretty cool look and fun to play with. I can't use the boost gauge as the ECU is being tricked by the Racechip so boost is off.
Maybe:
  • Intercooler hot pipe - More spooling sound? I'll see if I still want more after the SXTH intake. I'll probably still want more.
  • Wheels and tires - The OEMs are All Season so I will see how the winter goes. If they really suck and I want to drive a lot in the winter I may just swap the tires to good snow tires and pick some aftermarket wheels for the summer. I'm thinking 19 inch x 8.5 powder coated Bronze. I haven't settled on anything yet though.
  • Powder coat or plasti dip the stock wheels bronze. I've plasti dipped flat black wheels before but I may want them glossy so this may be new territory for me. The wheels being so new, I kinda wanna powder coat but that is so permanent and $$.
  • Strut Tower Brace and Rear Tie Bar - Not sure on this yet. I need to do more research on the necessity here. This is a daily for me and I don't drive it a ton so NVH not a problem but all out performance doesn't matter as much either to me anyway.
  • Exhaust of some kind - Get a lil bit more rumble, nothing too obnoxious. I haven't found what's right for me yet.
Wish List:
  • Duck bill rear deck spoiler or trunk Carbon Fiber if available - I haven't found one yet but for the right look and price I am down. Ark Performance has cool one for the Stinger
  • Carbon Fiber Hood - Why is the stock hood so damn heavy? Nothing too fancy just a lot lighter. 20 Forte Carbon Fiber Hood thread here
  • Hood struts might be needed cause of my weak muscles,haha, if I can't get a CF hood. I haven't found a bolt on kit yet might have to go custom here.
  • LED center taillight bar - I'm not sure I like this if it won't match the existing taillights. I need to see on in person.
  • Splitter Lip kit Carbon Fiber - Only one I've seen is from Splitter's PR on facebook and here too. Looks ok but I'm not sure I wanna go this route.
  • If not above lip kit then Wide Body Fenders would be the ultimate for me. - I've watched way too many composite making videos and I am tempted to go crazy here along with a custom hood. 20 forte gt carbon fiber hood?
If you have any questions about anything I've done let me know and I'd be happy to show you what I can and answer your questions.

Also to all I am located in the Northeast of USA and would be nice to hear and check out other people's Forte GT car in person. COVID sucks so this probably won't happen for a while. I do love me some cars and coffee.

UPDATE: I added a bunch of links above for better reference.
 

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Nice Kia you've got there. Enough to make me jealous. Can you elaborate on the racechip? It was my understanding that most of these are BS. $599 is a lot. Do you have before and after numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What LED fog lights did you upgrade to? Link would be great or brand etc?
I went with these from superbrightleds.com. I have similar for the wife's Honda Pilot and they have lasted over a year without any issues. Also the resistors are not needed there is no errors from the car. I have them set up as white. On the wife's pilot I have them as yellow. Both look good in their own way.
9006 LED Fanless Headlight/Fog Light Conversion Kit with Adjustable Color Temperature and Compact Heat Sinks - 5,000 Lumens/Set | Super Bright LEDs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice Kia you've got there. Enough to make me jealous. Can you elaborate on the racechip? It was my understanding that most of these are BS. $599 is a lot. Do you have before and after numbers?
I paid $449.00 for the GTS with app control as it was on sale special price of $499 and a coupon of $100 off direct from Racechip. I only really bought it cause the price was low enough to take the risk.

I don't have any numbers to provide yet just butt dyno only on 87 octane thus far. I have a VEEPEAK but I don't have the boost gauge yet, it's in the mail and I hate waiting. I know boost has gone up but I can't tell how much because the Racechip is tricking the ECU to think it's running lower boost so what provided from the ECU isn't useful. I wanna monitor what boost and timing is doing with each combination. I'll update when I do get more info though.
 

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Lots of great purchases. I will be following for more information on the race chip. I have looked at that and the LAP3 chip and am interested in getting one of them.
 

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Lots of great purchases. I will be following for more information on the race chip. I have looked at that and the LAP3 chip and am interested in getting one of them.
I'm definitely looking at all the different chips out there too. Just waiting to see some hard proof that it does anything. I'm really interested but am just cautious before I put one in.
 

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I picked the Burger Motorsports Juice Box aka JB4

One of the main reasons is data logging. You cannot tune modern turbocharged vehicles without knowing what's happening.

Second is water-methanol control which seems to get glossed over. Connected to the OBD-II for monitoring, control and logging. very advanced similar to connecting it to stand alone engine control systems.

Third Boost By Gear. This is something you can get with a PCM flash but is only changed by re-flashing. This is the part of flashing in Kia/Hyundai circles that you don't have access to.

All these devices work similarly. Going up a level in the app also increases boost which means more octane is needed. The JB4 works similarly but is connected to the OBD-II port and you can connect it to the o2 wideband sensor from the factory which changes the game compared to previous gen turbo cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just updated my first post to move the following to installed:
  • LED switch back front turn signal assemblies- As seen all over ebay, not just the bulbs. Hopefully these don't suck.
  • GFB Mach 2 BOV(T9111) & Whistling Trumpet(5702) - I just miss the blow off sound from my former car and removing the plumb back pipe just wasn't enough for me. This is so much louder then the OEM BOV with hose removed. The Whistling Trumpet sounds comically funny so I'm not sure I will keep that in. I am still massing with the preload on the spring. They say preload as much as you can before getting any turbo flutter in order to maximize throttle response. So this means trun the screw in go for a ride, come back and repeat...over and over. Of course sounds clips would be nice to share so I'll work on that.
I have the boost gauge in hand but the install is gonna take a while to figure out.
Back up bulbs are also in just need to do it.


Question: Does anyone get an update notification when I edit my first post if so, that is annoying and I will limit doing updates.
 

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I only get an update for your new posts, not edits.
I just updated my first post to move the following to installed:
  • LED switch back front turn signal assemblies- As seen all over ebay, not just the bulbs. Hopefully these don't suck.
  • GFB Mach 2 BOV(T9111) & Whistling Trumpet(5702) - I just miss the blow off sound from my former car and removing the plumb back pipe just wasn't enough for me. This is so much louder then the OEM BOV with hose removed. The Whistling Trumpet sounds comically funny so I'm not sure I will keep that in. I am still massing with the preload on the spring. They say preload as much as you can before getting any turbo flutter in order to maximize throttle response. So this means trun the screw in go for a ride, come back and repeat...over and over. Of course sounds clips would be nice to share so I'll work on that.
I have the boost gauge in hand but the install is gonna take a while to figure out.
Back up bulbs are also in just need to do it.


Question: Does anyone get an update notification when I edit my first post if so, that is annoying and I will limit doing updates.

I only get an email on new posts, not you editing your original post.
 

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Just be careful with SXTH, it took them almost 3 months to get me the hot pipe and one of the couplers was the wrong angle. I emailed them and they said they would send the right one and never did. I ended up buying a coupler on ebay which did work but never heard back from SXTH.
 

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Just be careful with SXTH, it took them almost 3 months to get me the hot pipe and one of the couplers was the wrong angle. I emailed them and they said they would send the right one and never did. I ended up buying a coupler on ebay which did work but never heard back from SXTH.
This is a classic case of not having enough employees to have a separate shipping department to ensure things are packed correctly.

After all kids run Sxth people that aren't even 30 yet like to jump on Facebook to challenge my experience with a lack of theirs.

I had a disturbing conversation with them about tunes and I was immediately turned off by their responses.

The more conservative tunes available as well.
 

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This is a classic case of not having enough employees to have a separate shipping department to ensure things are packed correctly.

After all kids run Sxth people that aren't even 30 yet like to jump on Facebook to challenge my experience with a lack of theirs.

I had a disturbing conversation with them about tunes and I was immediately turned off by their responses.

The more conservative tunes available as well.
I feel bad I am sure they are shorthanded with everything going on, but I will be reluctant to order anything from them again. I was almost going to get the FMIC upgrade kit from them because they seem to be the only game in town in regards to that. I have looked around and can't find any other company that offers that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just be careful with SXTH, it took them almost 3 months to get me the hot pipe and one of the couplers was the wrong angle. I emailed them and they said they would send the right one and never did. I ended up buying a coupler on ebay which did work but never heard back from SXTH.
I feel bad I am sure they are shorthanded with everything going on, but I will be reluctant to order anything from them again. I was almost going to get the FMIC upgrade kit from them because they seem to be the only game in town in regards to that. I have looked around and can't find any other company that offers that.
Thanks for the heads up. I actually did pull the trigger on buying the short ram intake and vacuum distribution block on 8/13/2020 before they opened and they replied with a tracking number shipped out on the same day. So I am hopeful there. I'll update when the parts show up. I did notice that the website said the intakes were on back order and would be filled when they came in late August. So perhaps when you ordered the hot pipe the website was lagging behind in update and they were out of stock so there was a delay to ship it out. But they should provide an e-mail at least letting you know there is a delay and the option to cancel order. My opinion of course. Also the wrong coupler is very frustrating so I hear you there. Perhaps following up with another e-mail or phone call would help. It's kinda late now but you paid for it so they should provide it.


I installed the Boost Gauge but I can't find a good boost source that doesn't seem to have a check valve in it. That's why I bought the Vacuum distribution block from SXTH so that should give me a source direct from the intake manifold. I'll take pics when it's fully installed. I also need to get thru the fire wall with the wires from the sender to the gauge. right now I have it rednecked out the hood cowl and thru the driver's window haha. To get thru the fire wall I want to remove the battery and get good access, it's a bit involved so I'll need some time. I tried just pushing from the driver's foot well out but it wasn't going well as the grommet is slanted and I don't want to damage any existing wiring.
 

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I feel bad I am sure they are shorthanded with everything going on, but I will be reluctant to order anything from them again. I was almost going to get the FMIC upgrade kit from them because they seem to be the only game in town in regards to that. I have looked around and can't find any other company that offers that.
Skip it and do water-methanol injection. Much more effective, solves three big problems.

1) Summer Time inlet temps which will reduce power even with an intercooler upgrade. Typical upgraded intercoolers are 20-30 degrees above ambient (outside temperature) at WOT 3rd-4th gear. Meaning on a mild day it's okay, but on a hot day you'll be right on the edge of ignition pull.

2) Anytime inlet temps! Even on a cool night (63 degrees) 3rd gear pull saw 130 degrees inlet. That is right on the threshold of ignition advance pull and on pump gas you aren't getting much to start with, which brings me to #3

3) Octane. It's hard to nail down exactly how much octane is added but it's somewhere around 110 but methanol and water absorb so much hot air, that even if the octane rating was lower, it will still make more power than VP 116 Q Import which is what 800-900 hp Turbo 4 cylinder and rotary cars used to run.

As it absorbs the hot air, it shifts to steam and that is the bonus impact of WMI on a DI (Direct Injected Engines) it will steam clean everything on the intake side of the head.
 

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Thanks for the heads up. I actually did pull the trigger on buying the short ram intake and vacuum distribution block on 8/13/2020 before they opened and they replied with a tracking number shipped out on the same day. So I am hopeful there. I'll update when the parts show up. I did notice that the website said the intakes were on back order and would be filled when they came in late August. So perhaps when you ordered the hot pipe the website was lagging behind in update and they were out of stock so there was a delay to ship it out. But they should provide an e-mail at least letting you know there is a delay and the option to cancel order. My opinion of course. Also the wrong coupler is very frustrating so I hear you there. Perhaps following up with another e-mail or phone call would help. It's kinda late now but you paid for it so they should provide it.


I installed the Boost Gauge but I can't find a good boost source that doesn't seem to have a check valve in it. That's why I bought the Vacuum distribution block from SXTH so that should give me a source direct from the intake manifold. I'll take pics when it's fully installed. I also need to get thru the fire wall with the wires from the sender to the gauge. right now I have it rednecked out the hood cowl and thru the driver's window haha. To get thru the fire wall I want to remove the battery and get good access, it's a bit involved so I'll need some time. I tried just pushing from the driver's foot well out but it wasn't going well as the grommet is slanted and I don't want to damage any existing wiring.
I'm also going to recommend water-methanol injection. A guy named Gary recently posted a dyno of his 2018 Forte5 SX DTC with at Tork SRI and axle back exhaust with a JB4 on E30. He made 176 whp stock, now makes 230 whp.

BUT, in Arizona his ambient (outside temp) was 108 degrees. His inlet temps (into the intake manifold via JB4 logging) were 150 degrees!

If you drop that down to 100 degrees via water-methanol (yes you can use them together and it's not overkill), the mass air flow will increase and it will make more power, my guess is around 250-260 hp. I made this suggestion to him and he said that somebody told him to upgrade his intercooler and that data driven information I gave him didn't move him off that.

But as I said above an intercooler upgrade in of itself won't help you very much when the weather is more than 80 degrees.

The way the JB4 controls water-methanol and their map sensor adapter they make for the Stinger works on the Forte GT, making it 100% plug-n-play, no wiring up anything more than the pump and no running vacuum line for a boost source, it works by using the OBD-II stream to detect boost and use the o2 sensor information to maintain ideal air-fuel ratio.

But that is also the core of the safety systems built into the JB4. Any fault with the WMI, it will bump you down to Map 0 which is the stock tune. The beauty is it doesn't take a flash tune to dial-in your water-methanol system, you do it via the app and everybody at BMS will help you get the most of it.
 
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