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Discussion Starter #21
I'm also going to recommend water-methanol injection. A guy named Gary recently posted a dyno of his 2018 Forte5 SX DTC with at Tork SRI and axle back exhaust with a JB4 on E30. He made 176 whp stock, now makes 230 whp.

BUT, in Arizona his ambient (outside temp) was 108 degrees. His inlet temps (into the intake manifold via JB4 logging) were 150 degrees!

If you drop that down to 100 degrees via water-methanol (yes you can use them together and it's not overkill), the mass air flow will increase and it will make more power, my guess is around 250-260 hp. I made this suggestion to him and he said that somebody told him to upgrade his intercooler and that data driven information I gave him didn't move him off that.

But as I said above an intercooler upgrade in of itself won't help you very much when the weather is more than 80 degrees.

The way the JB4 controls water-methanol and their map sensor adapter they make for the Stinger works on the Forte GT, making it 100% plug-n-play, no wiring up anything more than the pump and no running vacuum line for a boost source, it works by using the OBD-II stream to detect boost and use the o2 sensor information to maintain ideal air-fuel ratio.

But that is also the core of the safety systems built into the JB4. Any fault with the WMI, it will bump you down to Map 0 which is the stock tune. The beauty is it doesn't take a flash tune to dial-in your water-methanol system, you do it via the app and everybody at BMS will help you get the most of it.
I had water/meth injection in my last car and there is likely no way I'll ever do it again. Yes you can get better performance but the associated extra maintenance and worrying about failure is not worth it to me. At the end of the day this is a daily driver for me so there is no need for it for me. By all means don't let me talk others out of doing it to their car. There are some great systems that work well and don't have failures. It's just not for me and this car in particular for what I am using it for. Also E85 isn't an option around where I live as it's not readily available and buying barrels of it doesn't sound like fun to me either.

Some day I'll buy something ridiculously fast again but for now the Kia Forte Gt is mildly quick and inexpensive and I'd like to keep it that way.
 

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I would say more but it kind of rubs me wrong when people say what I am doing is inherently risky while what you're doing is risk averse?

Also fairly inexpensive, I'll have a complete price break down and even do a video.

$914 total.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
The SXTH parts came in and I updated my original post.

The intake is awesome and I recommend it to anyone looking for the spooling up turbo sound. I have the one that removes the blow off valve recirculation port. WIth the GFB BOV and Whistle trumpet it makes all the right sounds now.
It's no longer a cold air intake so those of you who don't want that should avoid this one.
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The vacuum distribution block, I am less of a fan of. It's expensive for what you are getting as it's not CNC machined it's a molded part that was poorly made in my opinion. I was also missing parts (one of the long screws and the wire ties for it so we'll see if SXTH makes right on that. I think it'll work it's just not good quality.

UPDATE: SXTH didn't reply to my e-mail but the parts did show up today.

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Discussion Starter #31
Yeah I've seen that before. At first I liked it then as time goes on I like it less. Not really sure why. There's at least one member here that has it looks good on their car but it's just not for me. If I go into something like that I'd want to go more extreme like a wide body of some sort. Purely for looks of course, haha. I've seen some widebody Elantra and Veloster kits. Hopefully some Forte kits get made. I'm too lazy to make a custom one but it would be sick. I'm also too cheap to drop the proper amount of $$ to do anything like the below kits and finish work that would be required.

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I paid $449.00 for the GTS with app control as it was on sale special price of $499 and a coupon of $100 off direct from Racechip. I only really bought it cause the price was low enough to take the risk.

I don't have any numbers to provide yet just butt dyno only on 87 octane thus far. I have a VEEPEAK but I don't have the boost gauge yet, it's in the mail and I hate waiting. I know boost has gone up but I can't tell how much because the Racechip is tricking the ECU to think it's running lower boost so what provided from the ECU isn't useful. I wanna monitor what boost and timing is doing with each combination. I'll update when I do get more info though.
My butt dyno agrees ;-) excellent product so far, increased fuel economy a plus as well. Similar to COBB Tuning on previous WRX GT GT2 DCT Pearl white.
 

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My current mods:
  • Platypus front plate mount- looks awesome, great Quality.
  • Kia 3.0 K Logos - I screwed up the paint on the front bumper when installing these, grrrrr. Also no need to remove the steering wheel logo to install, it's an overlay just like the wheel ones are. I ended up cutting off the front badge after I screwed up the paint around the logo despite using the tape around method. Also I'm not a fan of the Blue as it doesn't match the paint at all even though they say it's Deep Blue Sea. I ended up buying the Chrome/Black version for the front. It looks better than the black/blue one but I with the chrome was slightly tinted like the OEM grill surround is. I think I can do that with a spray on tint. Perhaps a future update on that.
  • Lowered on Eibach's E10-42-046-02-22- 1.25 inch drop F&R is what it measured out to be after settling(a month). Rides smooth like stock but less body roll in corners. I like but could be a tad lower.
  • Racechip GTS- Butt dyno can feel the difference for sure even at the stock setting of 5 out of 7 on 87 octane. I keep the stock plugs as this is a daily driver and doen't see boost most of then time anyway. I did go to 93 octane and did some street testing. Basically 40-60mph goes from 3.20 seconds stock to 2.6 seconds at level 7 on 93 octane.
  • ADD W1 V3.3 catch can - Just installed I'm on the fence with this right now. Install was not ideal but I made it work, I think....
  • LED foglight bulbs - Looks and functions so much better. No resistors needed with the one I bought.
  • LED switch back front turn signal assemblies- As seen all over ebay, not just the bulbs. I like them, they need to be seen in person to fully appreciate the function.
  • GFB Mach 2 BOV(T9111) & Whistling Trumpet(5702) - I just miss the blow off sound from my former car and removing the plumb back pipe just wasn't enough for me. This is so much louder then the OEM BOV with hose removed. The Whistling Trumpet sounds comically funny but I am now getting used to it. Of course sounds clips would be nice to share so I'll work on that.
  • LED back up bulbs - Windows are tinted so it's hard to see back there at night and the backup cam also looks pretty grainy from lack of light on the stock bulbs. I went with a cheap Amazon set as they were recommend online by another forum for Subarus. I had a low bar set for these but I'd say they are ok. Improvement from stock and def a better color but not a huge difference in brightness.
  • Boost gauge - I wanna see what the Racechip GTS is changing the boost to on each power level. I bought a Depo Racing Boost Gauge. Still need to fully install this. I am waiting on the SXTH Vacuum Dist Block to plumb in the vacuum/boost line.
  • SXTH Short Ram intake - This was a fantastic mod. The spooling sound of the turbo is now there and it sounds awesome! The quality of this seems pretty darn good too. While I was there I drilled a hole in the engine cover for the ADD W1 breather so now it looks a lot better and not flopping around.
  • SXTH Vacuum Dist Block V2.0 - I'll use this to plumb in the boost gauge. Also as a reviewer pointed out this could be used as a port to clean the intake valves. Initial quality check on this is a poor one. For $49 I definitely over paid. The block is not CNC machined. It's a poorly injection molded part with a tap run into the two ports after injection molding as there are still burrs from the tap in the holes that should have been removed. I say poorly molded as there is shrinkage all over the part that make it extremely not flat. A CNC'd part would have been much better in this regard. I have designed/made molded/machined parts for a good part of my career so I know what I am talking about here. The question is will it function. I'll have to remove the burrs and try it out. But for now, and for $49 this is a do not buy in my opinion.
  • LED Plate Lights - Bulb type is 921 and the ones I bought from super bright LEDs seem to work great. Whiter light was the goal, mission accomplished.
  • LED Rear Turn Signal bulbs - I originally bought PY21W(aka 7507) bulbs as this is what the manual says is in there but they are wrong. The PY21W(aka 7507) has an offset to the pins they are not 180 degrees they are 150 degrees apart. Also they need to be can bus otherwise you'll get the fast flash and light out indication. The bulb in the socket is 180 degrees which the internet tells me is an 1156(aka BA15S) in Amber color with can bus. The ones I have linked worked perfect, for now anyway.
  • Manual Shifter mods - The stock setup is soo floopy. I installed the Boomba Racing Short Shift Trans Adapter, Not sure it was needed but it did make it shorter and better shift engagement. It was still floppy after the install though. So I added SXTH Shifter Cable End Bushing Kit and Boomba Racing Trans Bracket Bushings. This stiffened it right up and now feels like it should. I must note though for some reason 4th gear sometimes has a bit of trouble going in. It's getting better the more I use it but it was something I noticed. Not sure what part(s) is causing it. I have bought the Shift base bushings from SXTH but I haven't put them in yet.
  • Torque Pro Display Mod - Set this up and made a custom background. Pretty cool look and fun to play with. I can't use the boost gauge as the ECU is being tricked by the Racechip so boost is off.
Maybe:
  • Intercooler hot pipe - More spooling sound? I'll see if I still want more after the SXTH intake. I'll probably still want more.
  • Wheels and tires - The OEMs are All Season so I will see how the winter goes. If they really suck and I want to drive a lot in the winter I may just swap the tires to good snow tires and pick some aftermarket wheels for the summer. I'm thinking 19 inch x 8.5 powder coated Bronze. I haven't settled on anything yet though.
  • Powder coat or plasti dip the stock wheels bronze. I've plasti dipped flat black wheels before but I may want them glossy so this may be new territory for me. The wheels being so new, I kinda wanna powder coat but that is so permanent and $$.
  • Strut Tower Brace and Rear Tie Bar - Not sure on this yet. I need to do more research on the necessity here. This is a daily for me and I don't drive it a ton so NVH not a problem but all out performance doesn't matter as much either to me anyway.
  • Exhaust of some kind - Get a lil bit more rumble, nothing too obnoxious. I haven't found what's right for me yet.
Wish List:
  • Duck bill rear deck spoiler or trunk Carbon Fiber if available - I haven't found one yet but for the right look and price I am down. Ark Performance has cool one for the Stinger
  • Carbon Fiber Hood - Why is the stock hood so damn heavy? Nothing too fancy just a lot lighter. 20 Forte Carbon Fiber Hood thread here
  • Hood struts might be needed cause of my weak muscles,haha, if I can't get a CF hood. I haven't found a bolt on kit yet might have to go custom here.
  • LED center taillight bar - I'm not sure I like this if it won't match the existing taillights. I need to see on in person.
  • Splitter Lip kit Carbon Fiber - Only one I've seen is from Splitter's PR on facebook and here too. Looks ok but I'm not sure I wanna go this route.
  • If not above lip kit then Wide Body Fenders would be the ultimate for me. - I've watched way too many composite making videos and I am tempted to go crazy here along with a custom hood. 20 forte gt carbon fiber hood?
If you have any questions about anything I've done let me know and I'd be happy to show you what I can and answer your questions.

Also to all I am located in the Northeast of USA and would be nice to hear and check out other people's Forte GT car in person. COVID sucks so this probably won't happen for a while. I do love me some cars and coffee.

UPDATE: I added a bunch of links above for better reference.
This has to be the most valuable 21 Forte GT thread thus far thanks for this.
 
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