I need a little extra clarification. I just want to be sure that I fully understand this. The issue I'm having is that I try so hard not to over rev the engine, but it feels like ALL the power (or what have you) is at the front of the pedal. In my civic and in my girlfriends RDX, the MORE I press the gas pedal, the MORE power I get. In my Forte, it feels like ALL the power is in the first 1/4 of the pedal. So if I press the pedal down more, it doesn't really go any faster. It doesn't bog down or anything either, it's just, I would love to have it spread evenly throughout the entire pedal.

So I suppose my question would be, is this what the throttle mod does? Does it balance the acceleration more throughout the entire pedal? Because if it does, I really need to get on this.

 

This helps take the dead spot out of the first few degrees of pedal push. If your stopped and at idle..as you start to push the pedal..it does nothing a moment then over compensates because you push it more due to no initial response.

I know what your talking about. My forte doesn't do it..but my hyundai accent did. I could get more power to say go up a hill by using just a bit of throttle rather than say half or more. I dont have a fix for that. But i would notice it getting more sensitive to that about tune up time. I also wonder if it has anything to do with a clogging cat..seemed to be a possible theory but i never got to that ..sold the car and bought this one. I know it also had nothing to do with timing belt stretch ..did it before and after i serviced it as well.

 

Hey guys so I have a 2010 kia forte sx 6sp and I did this mod like 4 times adjusting back and forth until I decided screw ill just move it all the way towards the firewall and it took away the dead spot and my idle never changed it still idles at about 600 or 700 so ya worked good for me and so far I haven't had any CEL's or hiccups


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

i have now done this on a 2.4 and a 2.0 leaving 2mm space and worked same.. no play at all.. when you step on it even a little it revs up

 

For the books this mod applies to the 2014 as well. Just did the mod to my 2014 lx 6spd and it makes a world of difference!!! Shifting was very jerky before due to the dead spot but now its real smooth and take offs are alot quicker thanks to this smoothing out. However the screws on the 2014 are on the opposite side so just mirror the procedure and it works all the same.

 

Great news!^ glad it still works for the new gen!

 

I saw the reference to this mod in the November newsletter. I made the change using the multimeter approach described by Tmccorkel in 2010; this was right after I bought the car used in 2012. Mine is a 2010 SK w/6 spd. I got the voltage to around .92-5 up from .78. The car was virtually impossible to live with before this. The change made the shift into first and then into second much easier. Going into 2d now is pretty much normal based on my experience with multiple manual cars over the years including an '84 GTI and Mustang GT. However, first gear is still tricky - it just is not smooth and the car easily bucks - and I usually short shift to get the car moving and then go to 2d. IMHO abandoning cable throttles was a criminal move.

Anyway, just for comment, my regular mechanic (highly experienced on all types of domestic and foreign cars and very reputable) told me the fix for this should really be a remap by the dealer. I would never take any car to the dealer for service unless it was warranty work, as I prefer independents with good reviews.

Has anyone addressed this with Kia as a TSB or warranty issue since 2010? What result? And are tuners keeping the TPS or do they possibly replace it with a fabricated cable system that works better? Just curious - I love the car except for this annoying problem and I really hope Kia eliminates it on their new models.

 

Combine this mod with the c.d.v. delete and its gets a bit better. Still not 100% perfect but best possible.

 

Wow, OK - checked the thread on removing the cdv for the 2.4; looks like a rough job. So much for a reflash. This is probably why manuals are going extinct, they are making them miserable to use - in the name of making them easier.

I saw a youtube video on removing the cdv from the 2.0, looks easier to do.

 

Ahhh. Yeah 2.4 is a lil more p.i.t.a. but was accomplished without removal of trans by someone. When i have more time i will report the method back to ya or tag you in the post tonight.

 

Chalk me up as another satisfied customer! :Excited:

When I got the car Friday, I had a 220 mile drive to get home. When I wasn't on the interstate, the car was downright scary! Stalling and surging and bucking... Oh my goodness! I had read that it was bad, but nothing can prepare you for actually experiencing it! :shocked:

I did a "blind" adjustment yesterday (turned out to be .82v) and it was improved, but I still bucked and stalled a few times. Today I hit it up with the old Fluke, and got it at .96, and I couldn't be happier with the takeoff now.

 

Does this help 2013 sx's? Mine a fairly sensitive but I've gotten used to it for the most part. Throttle seems to depend on a few factors which makes it hard to predict.

 

Worked perfectly on my 2013 SX.

 

Thank you newsletter! I can't stand how useless 1st gear is how bucky and choppy it is. So is it necessary to do both the pedal mod and the tps? Is the dealer going to look at me like wtf when I ask them about this?

 

Aren't they both the same thing? I think people just have different names for the mod. It still involves the "black box" your gas pedal is attached to.

 

Hey guys, I sort of feel a dead spot but my peddle is very touchy to begin with. I was going to consider this mod but I have a 2010 koup and it an auto. I feel this mod is applying to manuals only?

 

I wonder if this applies to the 2014 (second gen) cars.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Should I attempt this on a 2013 Forte Sedan 2.0 Automatic? AFTER reading all 27 pages here I am so stoked to try it! Thanks in advance

 

Go for it. If you don't like the results can always put it back. Really it only takes 10mins

 

my car is a 14 ex automatic. I wasnt expecting much from the mod, but I wanted to try anyways. Looking down by my pedal I see the setup is different from the older models. I ended up finding a write up on how to do this same mod on a 13 Elantra in a Hyundai forum. The guy actualy referenced this forum and someone else who did it on an Accent as well. Apparently the way the sensor and pedal is setup on the 14 Forte is the exact same as the 13 Elantra and Accent. His pics verify this. And definately different from 1st gen Fortes. Anyways I made and adjustment slightly forward. It did seem so make a slight difference. Feels like I barely have to put weight on the gas pedal to get a response. Did not affect my rpm at all. Actually think I could have adjusted a little more. But it really was a pain in the ass to get that assembly off and back on. Not sure if im going to play with it anymore. Pretty cool little adjustment though. And it most definatly can still be done on the 2nd gen Fortes.

 

So I just looked at this and after trying to contort myself to access this part of the pedal, I am wondering how you guys did it.

Seems like it must be detached first before adjusting. I thought about just loosening the 5 screws without detaching, but the steering wheel shaft is fighting with the screwdriver. Plus, there's no space down there for me to see what I'm doing.

 

I'd remove it. It's a LOT easier that way...

 

^this^

 

How do you detach the right-side screws that hold the entire assembly? There isn't enough space to maneuver any tool there as the area is so narrow and these are nuts, not a bolt as on the left.

I found this video (which might have been posted before, sorry) where the poster did everything without detaching the assembly. I tried that and was able to loosen all 4 screws except for the "set" screw. Seems like no matter which size of Phillips screwdriver that I used, the screw wouldn't loosen. Fearing that it was stripped, I tried the old rubber band trick but that didn't work.

Any other tips from those who have done this already? Thanks in advance.

 

I recently picked up a 2010 Kia Forte Koup SX and i noticed the dead spot immediately...I tried getting a reading with a multimeter, but to no avail It wasn't reading correctly. After a few days of suffering with the rolling dead spot and jumping the car or stalling it, I decided to loosen the 5 screws and slide the plate to the firewall and then back about 1/8". I screw it back in, started it up and instantly felt a difference. Now it drives like a normal manual trans. It's hard to tell it's drive by wire once you do this fix! So far best and easiest mod ever. I also just recently purchase a carbon fiber muffler. Can't wait to get that baby in! Never thought i'd be driving a Kia honestly, but when i test drove this car I was like.. yeah i can do this ...

 

Lol, you guys complicate things reflash the ecu and you will have more power plus more response

 

Nice to know about it.Its very interesting and also very helpful for the mechanics and car lovers like me.I have my own workshop of my Dad but they late.so i managed it.I read this thread and its very helpful in my work.I think the best Throttle mod ever is New product - DBW Throttle Delay Eliminator.

 

Hi guys,

Just did this mod on my '10 Koup. All it is is a cover which presses two sets of contacts together for the DBW. Initially I did it with everything off, setting it to the most forward position. I started the car after and as soon as the engine caught it started revving like a bat out of hell, so I shut it down. Then I moved it back all of the way and started it, and it sputtered and almost stalled when it started. Then realized it was almost like setting the idle screw on a carb. So I started it back up and actually set the position with the engine running, gently pushing on the pedal until I could just touch it and make it rev, removing the dead spot COMPLETELY. Everyone who says you'll always have a dead spot in DBW needs to do it this way. The only downside to doing it with the car running is if you lose your grip on the plate, nothing necessarily bad will happen (it will just idle with no response to accelerator input) but it will throw a code for the DBW system. So you'll just have to do what I'm doing as I type this and disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Actually, now that I think of it, it's probably good to disconnect it anyway?Koups as we all know have learnable ECUs, so it will relearn your driving style with the new throttle adjustment which will definitely make a difference as opposed to not disconnecting the battery.

 

^^^^^^^^^ Just did the mod on my 2010 Koup sx manual, works great. I did the same thing as the guy above me, adjust it with your engine ON. Makes it waaaaay easier to get it in the perfect spot without raising the rpms!!

 

wrong section

xxx

 

Great tutorial