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Best Throttle mod ever

261K views 441 replies 193 participants last post by  Yoruke  
#1 · (Edited)
Want to improve your first gear take off? Want to get rid of that annoying dead-spot in your gas pedal? Do you have 10 minutes and a Phillips screwdriver? Then i have a mod for you.

First off i own a 2010 Forte SX sedan and i hated how the gas and clutch worked. Over reving the engine or stalling at the lights was a pain in my $&%^!!!

The gas pedal works by wire, no cable. The fix involves loosening 5 Phillips screws on the left side of the gas pedal. The screws hold the pick ups for the sliders feeler arms. Once the its loosened it can be repositioned by moving it in 1 of 2 directions towards the front of the car or back. Front of car will take out the dead spot and to the rear will give you a HUGE dead-spot. The pic is upside down and only shows 3 of the 5 screws and where the the wire plugs into it.

I took my pedal rite out and was going to mod it but then i noticed that there was room to slide it instead of hacking it up.

Link to tutorial http://www.forteforums.com/forums/do-yourself-articles/1342-best-throttle-mod-ever-2.html#post16307
 

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#44 · (Edited)
I took your advice Enviros and removed the pedal assembly from my car. At first I could not move the cover after loosening the screws again...but...I noticed in your picture that you removed the "fifth" top-most screw and sure enough, there's lots of play. I think that fifth screw is a "securing screw" to insure the cover doesn't move after initial cover adjustment. I have moved my cover 3/16" towards the front...now we'll see what the difference is.

Thanks for discovering, posting, and pictures!
 
#45 · (Edited)
Just got back from a test drive: MUCH better throttle response (I have 5 speed auto too).

Note to people that adjust your accelerator cover to full forward (Enviros' Step 7 Pic7: Shows the module moved with no dead spot)...your engine will rev higher at idle/initial start up...it will return to normal idle speed after letting it idle for a minute and a short drive.



I wonder, however, if the computer will relearn this and "tune" down the engine? Time will tell...
 
#46 ·
Man i tried doing this earlier and boy was i sweating bullets. i could not adjust a damn thing i unscrwed the bottom 2 and the far left one but after that i was like ok this thing isnt working, screws were in too damn tight just not enough space for me to loosen the screws. Now question do you loosen them or take them all off? Cause i took 3 off and then i stopped.
 
#50 ·
It's easier if you unplug the unit and unbolt it from the car... there are 3 of them. I did the same thing as you upside down and sweatin bullets. ahah I was pissed to say the least. Once its out of the car you should have no problem.
 
#52 ·
They are different Red... look closely where the screws are sitting in relation to the module... you'll see that the positioning (the slide part) is diff. Look at the top 2 screws... not the very top one... the next two. Yes you do need to loosen them all in order for it to move.
 
#48 · (Edited)
First post here. Nice forum. I'm interested in the Forte, especially the SX 6 speed. I'm shocked Kia released the car with this problem. It makes the car a lot more difficult to drive/less fun than it should be. Has anyone here ever thought of forwarding this easy mod to Kia? I think they really need to be this way from the factory.
 
#54 ·
It is FAR easier to adjust the cover if you take the accelerator pedal assy out of the car -- as Enviros said, there are two 10 MM nuts and one 10 MM bolt...and you have to disconnect the wire harness -- the clip is on the passenger side of the harness connector: squeeze the top of the connector and you will feel a click when the lock unsnaps...then just pull the harness connector off the top of the cover. There are 4 cross point screws that allow adjusting, the top fifth screw should be removed or backed out considerably -- or you won't be able to move the cover.

Now for the full information:
Brought my Koup to the dealer and had one of the service managers take a drive and then we hooked up a computer to see what was happening and then he brought up a new Koup to check against.
The correct voltage of APS 1 at idle should be @.7 volts. The engine does not respond until the APS 1 reads 1.0 volts. It takes about 5/16" (thickness of a pen) before it reads 1.0 volts. THIS is the "Dead Spot" -- it's real. I positioned my cover full to the front and had 1.3 Volts. This was causing the throttle to open and advancing the ignition considerably (original around 7-9 degrees - full forward is 20-30 degrees). This is too much for normal driving -- but great if you run your car at the dragstrip. The throttle response is outstanding too.

It is probably best to adjust the throttle cover so that APS 1 reads 1.0 volts. This will eliminate ALL pedal play and the dreaded Dead Spot. Try to start off with about 1/32" between the top adjuster screws and the edge of the cover's slots.
 
#55 ·
I'm really happy that people are finding this useful. I was stoked when i found it and not finding anything on the forums about it. YAAAAA! i have a mod useful to the Kia community.... I usually go looking for help on stuff like this so for me to offer this up to others makes me very proud.

I just got so sick of driving a "new" car and stalling it like a damn n00b or racing the engine like Mario Andretti.

Can we name it Envi's mod ...:D?
 
#58 ·
I'm really happy that people are finding this useful. I was stoked when i found it and not finding anything on the forums about it. YAAAAA! i have a mod useful to the Kia community.... I usually go looking for help on stuff like this so for me to offer this up to others makes me very proud.

I just got so sick of driving a "new" car and stalling it like a damn n00b or racing the engine like Mario Andretti.

Can we name it Envi's mod ...:D?

It is truly useful! Thanks again!
 
#63 · (Edited)
Service Manager/Technician at my local Kia was using a diagnostic laptop connected to the OBDII port under the dash to read the voltage. I have an Actron CP9180 that reads the TPS sensor positions -- a TPS reading 17% to 19% will put you in the "ballpark" of 1.0 Volts. With the cover full forward I was getting a TPS reading of 20.2% (1.3 volts). My sedan's TPS registers 15.2% at idle -- probably .7 volts
 
#67 ·
just some info :)

Accelerator
Position
Output Voltage (V)
APS1
APS2
C.T
0.7 ~ 0.8
0.275 ~ 0.475
W.O.T
3.85 ~ 4.35
1.75 ~ 2.35



Items
Sensor Resistance (kΩ)
APS1
0.8 ~ 1.6 [20°C(68°F)]
APS2
0.9 ~ 2.5 [20°C(68°F)]

Image


did notice that the engine idle does nothing till after 1v hope this helps
 
#69 ·
Accelerator
Position
Output Voltage (V)
APS1
APS2
C.T
0.7 ~ 0.8
0.275 ~ 0.475
W.O.T
3.85 ~ 4.35
1.75 ~ 2.35



Items
Sensor Resistance (kΩ)
APS1
0.8 ~ 1.6 [20°C(68°F)]
APS2
0.9 ~ 2.5 [20°C(68°F)]

Image


did notice that the engine idle does nothing till after 1v hope this helps
Sorry what does C.T stand for please? Good info btw thanks NVM closed throttle
 
#68 ·
finally it took me a little while to get mines done but i have to say HOUSTON WE HAVE VISUAL!!! i put mines all the way to the left so and honestly i really didnt see my rpms raise over 700. Everything appears to be normal, and oh boy the response time is just insane. i was testing it out with sportsmatic and damn am loving it. Even my buddy test drove it and was like dude what da heck did you do it man. haha. This shit really works man. Thanks for unlocking the power Enviros. So now what's next???: )
 
#70 ·
Want to improve your first gear take off? Want to get rid of that annoying dead-spot in your gas pedal? Do you have 10 minutes and a Phillips screwdriver? Then i have a mod for you.

First off i own a 2010 Forte SX sedan and i hated how the gas and clutch worked. Over reving the engine or stalling at the lights was a pain in my $&%^!!!

The gas pedal works by wire, no cable. The fix involves loosening 5 Phillips screws on the left side of the gas pedal. The screws hold the pick ups for the sliders feeler arms. Once the its loosened it can be repositioned by moving it in 1 of 2 directions towards the front of the car or back. Front of car will take out the dead spot and to the rear will give you a HUGE dead-spot. The pic is upside down and only shows 3 of the 5 screws and where the the wire plugs into it.

I took my pedal rite out and was going to mod it but then i noticed that there was room to slide it instead of hacking it up.
So this the actual fault that I have with my car!!! I'd say if I can"t fix it I would not buy another KIA, dont get me wrong< love the car< I have the SX fully loaded 6 Speed Blue. I get tons of comments on the style and colour.

But feel really stupid when I stall the bloody thing< and I've driven manual shift for years!!!

Was very uncertain about this proposed fix. But attempted the fix a shown>>> could not seem to get movement as shown. SO

A) tightened back up
b) I'm seeing improvement already, i dont have to have high revs to counter act the delay
c) I have a smooth take off from 1st gear
d) I'm a happy camper and now have a car I don't feel stupid about, does not stall!!!

only questions

so the two screws that are in slots are the adjustable ones.
the other Three do these need to be totally removed to get full adjustment as shown in your pics

THE IS THE BEST FIX EVER
 
#71 · (Edited)
only questions

so the two screws that are in slots are the adjustable ones.
the other Three do these need to be totally removed to get full adjustment as shown in your pics

THE IS THE BEST FIX EVER
There are 5 cross-point screws on the cover -- the top right screw appears to be a set screw -- it needs to be backed out most of the way to allow adjustment and is used to secure the cover after adjustment. The other 4 screws have to be loosened a bit to allow adjustment -- all of these have slots (the top 2 have noticable slots while the bottom 2 just have enlarged holes.

Does this help:
http://www.kia-forums.com/gallery/index.php?n=1267
 
#73 ·
i recommend you do steven, however just letting you know right now the pedal seems a lot more sensitive very touchy, my MPG were dropping inmensely because of that i have mines maxed out all the way. I just need to get used to that touchy pedal. It's like learning how to drive a new car all over again the difference is just that big. I cant wait until my cai and cat back comes in from turbokits. Then we'll see how it reacts then. : )
 
#74 ·
You guys might want to take a step back and think twice about this. It appears all you're doing is advancing the timing, and not just at idle. In that case, I would SERIOUSLY worry about adverse effects such as running too hot, frying your plugs, and frying your cat...to name a few. Food for thought...
 
#78 ·
The accelerator pedal sensors (APS 1 and APS 2) are rheostats that increase the voltage to the ECU when depressing the pedal. The more the press the higher the voltage. The ECU uses those inputs to control fuel and timing. They are not just on-and-off switches.
 
#76 ·
I would have thought so too, but people here are saying it advanced timing. Remember, the ECU gets input from the throttle and sets A/F ratio, timing, etc. So, if by adjusting that control unit to a "never fully off' position, it could be a problem, IMO. Hence the corresponding increase in idle speed too. I would worry...
 
#77 · (Edited)
Movement of the accelerator pedal has little to no effect on the engine until APS reads 1.0 volts. If you adjust the cover so that it reads just under 1.0 volts will completely remove the dead spot and throttle response will be crisper. I don't recommend positioning the cover full forward as it positions the Throttle to an open condition -- which appears to advance the timing. Read this with my scanner. It makes the auto equipped cars' idle a little erratic too.

It helps the manual equipped cars (stock) because as you are letting off the clutch and trying to make a smooth take off you have to move the throttle more than expected to get the engine to respond. Pushing the throttle a little one would expect the engine to increase RPMs -- but a little throttle doesn't do this unless you take out the dead spot.
 
#79 ·
Maybe so, and I suppose they made it adjustable for a reason. But what I'm seeing here is a little disconcerting...individuals adjusting their throttle without the proper equip to enure settings/voltage are correct. One person said it increased his idle to 1700 rpm. Another said timing was advanced to +12. If left like that, all sorts of problems will occur.
 
#80 ·
I was going to do this during the weekend but changed my mind. For now, I am going to leave it as it is. I will look to adjust it when I can measure the voltage of the APS.
 
#81 ·
A wise decision. It's best to be correct and use the proper tools. I backed mine off from the full forward adjustment because of what I saw on the scan tools. The throttle response is not as good now - but it is better to be safe!
 
#83 ·
I really didnt see any increase in rpm whatsoever mines still rests at 700rpm or less just somewhere around there and i have to say i made the adjustment and is fully forward. But honestly i really dont see an increase in rpm at all. Im drving the 2.4sx auto.
 
#85 · (Edited)
ok info incoming so hold your keyboards above your heads lol.
{Ignition timing is controlled by the electronic control ignition timing system. The standard reference ignition timing data for the engine operating conditions are preprogrammed in the memory of the ECM (Engine Control Module).

The engine operating conditions (speed, load, warm-up condition, etc.) are detected by the various sensors. Based on these sensor signals and the ignition timing data, signals to interrupt the primary current are sent to the ECM. The ignition coil is activated, and timing is controlled.}
Ok so heres my input on this- if im not mistaken when you accel the timing is advanced by the ECM. With that being said when you put your foot to the pedal and idle the engine up with the APS(accelerater position sensor) then timing advances. Now if your adjusting APS to 1.0v and above then the ECM is seeing movement from the gas pedal but not till after 1.0v Hope this makes sense lol

And by the way having the correct tools to adjust this makes it alot easier :p