[ForteGT2]

Understood but does it really advance the ignition...going to check my gas mileage against this cause it would tell me withing a tank of fuel. Besides i have a warranty and i would set it back or just deny ever moving it. Prove it is what I'd say. I just have a tough time believing this is controlling the timing when i think about it. What does APS stand for please?

Accelerator Position Sensor (in addition to TPS - throttle position sensor). There are 2 sensors, APS 2 reads approximately half the voltage of APS 1.

The APS controls timing and fuel too.

I checked my Koup and my sedan for comparison...my Koups timing was more than double what my sedans timing is at idle (with the cover full forward). I have readjusted my Koups cover and now the timing is only 2 degrees higher than my sedans at idle -- I have it adjusted to .88 volts right now. I have about 1/16 inch play. When I have the time I will readjust to 1.0 volts.

 

[Kenny C]

Where are you reading the volts at ForteSX2.4?

Gonna try this, this weekend!

 

[ForteGT2]

Where are you reading the volts at ForteSX2.4?

Gonna try this, this weekend!

Service Manager/Technician at my local Kia was using a diagnostic laptop connected to the OBDII port under the dash to read the voltage. I have an Actron CP9180 that reads the TPS sensor positions -- a TPS reading 17% to 19% will put you in the "ballpark" of 1.0 Volts. With the cover full forward I was getting a TPS reading of 20.2% (1.3 volts). My sedan's TPS registers 15.2% at idle -- probably .7 volts

 

[jeff613]

How noticeable was the rpm increase?

Did my Koup today. With the engine at operating temp I usually idle about 750rpms. I loosened all the screws and moved the cover full front and tightened them back then started the car. It was idling at 1900rpms! I had no dead space though. I shut off the engine and loosened all the screws again and then-with the ebrake on and in neutral I started the car and moved the cover back just a little bit at a time until the idle went back down to normal.I tightened the screws and checked the throttle response...no dead space!! Like I said in my previous post I had about 3/4 inch dead space before I did this! Now I have response as soon as the pedal is touched and the idle is the way it was! Thanks Enviros!!!

 

[Enviros]

Did my Koup today. With the engine at operating temp I usually idle about 750rpms. I loosened all the screws and moved the cover full front and tightened them back then started the car. It was idling at 1900rpms! I had no dead space though. I shut off the engine and loosened all the screws again and then-with the ebrake on and in neutral I started the car and moved the cover back just a little bit at a time until the idle went back down to normal.I tightened the screws and checked the throttle response...no dead space!! Like I said in my previous post I had about 3/4 inch dead space before I did this! Now I have response as soon as the pedal is touched and the idle is the way it was! Thanks Enviros!!!

Sweet its nice to know that dead spot will disappear and not go too far advance on the timing then. Guess ill turn my back then

 

[Enviros]

On a side note... it might be easy to rig up some sort of switch piggybacked to the plug that goes into the gas pedal to do a "tune on the fly" type setup?

 

[wavoom]

just some info

Accelerator
Position
Output Voltage (V)
APS1
APS2
C.T
0.7 ~ 0.8
0.275 ~ 0.475
W.O.T
3.85 ~ 4.35
1.75 ~ 2.35



Items
Sensor Resistance (kΩ)
APS1
0.8 ~ 1.6 [20°C(68°F)]
APS2
0.9 ~ 2.5 [20°C(68°F)]

did notice that the engine idle does nothing till after 1v hope this helps

 

[Big Red]

finally it took me a little while to get mines done but i have to say HOUSTON WE HAVE VISUAL!!! i put mines all the way to the left so and honestly i really didnt see my rpms raise over 700. Everything appears to be normal, and oh boy the response time is just insane. i was testing it out with sportsmatic and damn am loving it. Even my buddy test drove it and was like dude what da heck did you do it man. haha. This shit really works man. Thanks for unlocking the power Enviros. So now what's next???: )

 

[Enviros]

Accelerator
Position
Output Voltage (V)
APS1
APS2
C.T
0.7 ~ 0.8
0.275 ~ 0.475
W.O.T
3.85 ~ 4.35
1.75 ~ 2.35



Items
Sensor Resistance (kΩ)
APS1
0.8 ~ 1.6 [20°C(68°F)]
APS2
0.9 ~ 2.5 [20°C(68°F)]

did notice that the engine idle does nothing till after 1v hope this helps

Sorry what does C.T stand for please? Good info btw thanks NVM closed throttle

 

[SteveL]

Want to improve your first gear take off? Want to get rid of that annoying dead-spot in your gas pedal? Do you have 10 minutes and a Phillips screwdriver? Then i have a mod for you.

First off i own a 2010 Forte SX sedan and i hated how the gas and clutch worked. Over reving the engine or stalling at the lights was a pain in my $&%^!!!

The gas pedal works by wire, no cable. The fix involves loosening 5 Phillips screws on the left side of the gas pedal. The screws hold the pick ups for the sliders feeler arms. Once the its loosened it can be repositioned by moving it in 1 of 2 directions towards the front of the car or back. Front of car will take out the dead spot and to the rear will give you a HUGE dead-spot. The pic is upside down and only shows 3 of the 5 screws and where the the wire plugs into it.

I took my pedal rite out and was going to mod it but then i noticed that there was room to slide it instead of hacking it up.

So this the actual fault that I have with my car!!! I'd say if I can"t fix it I would not buy another KIA, dont get me wrong< love the car< I have the SX fully loaded 6 Speed Blue. I get tons of comments on the style and colour.

But feel really stupid when I stall the bloody thing< and I've driven manual shift for years!!!

Was very uncertain about this proposed fix. But attempted the fix a shown>>> could not seem to get movement as shown. SO

A) tightened back up
b) I'm seeing improvement already, i dont have to have high revs to counter act the delay
c) I have a smooth take off from 1st gear
d) I'm a happy camper and now have a car I don't feel stupid about, does not stall!!!

only questions

so the two screws that are in slots are the adjustable ones.
the other Three do these need to be totally removed to get full adjustment as shown in your pics

THE IS THE BEST FIX EVER

 

[ForteGT2]

only questions

so the two screws that are in slots are the adjustable ones.
the other Three do these need to be totally removed to get full adjustment as shown in your pics

THE IS THE BEST FIX EVER

There are 5 cross-point screws on the cover -- the top right screw appears to be a set screw -- it needs to be backed out most of the way to allow adjustment and is used to secure the cover after adjustment. The other 4 screws have to be loosened a bit to allow adjustment -- all of these have slots (the top 2 have noticable slots while the bottom 2 just have enlarged holes.

Does this help:
http://www.kia-forums.com/gallery/index.php?n=1267

 

[SteveL]

There are 5 cross-point screws on the cover -- the top right screw appears to be a set screw -- it needs to be backed out most of the way to allow adjustment and is used to secure the cover after adjustment. The other 4 screws have to be loosened a bit to allow adjustment -- all of these have slots (the top 2 have noticable slots while the bottom 2 just have enlarged holes.

Does this help:
Kia-Forums.com :: Kia Enthusiast Forums - PhotoPlog - Throttle Cover Adjustment

Yes very much, I unscrewed but did not take out the top screw, but even got a very small adjustment< and I have seen a bit difference. Will try again this weekend

 

[Big Red]

i recommend you do steven, however just letting you know right now the pedal seems a lot more sensitive very touchy, my MPG were dropping inmensely because of that i have mines maxed out all the way. I just need to get used to that touchy pedal. It's like learning how to drive a new car all over again the difference is just that big. I cant wait until my cai and cat back comes in from turbokits. Then we'll see how it reacts then. : )

 

[Silver2010]

You guys might want to take a step back and think twice about this. It appears all you're doing is advancing the timing, and not just at idle. In that case, I would SERIOUSLY worry about adverse effects such as running too hot, frying your plugs, and frying your cat...to name a few. Food for thought...

 

[MFury]

I thought the timing settings were in the ECU not in a switch. This switch should be just telling the ECU "Hey the accelerator pedal is being used".

 

[Silver2010]

I would have thought so too, but people here are saying it advanced timing. Remember, the ECU gets input from the throttle and sets A/F ratio, timing, etc. So, if by adjusting that control unit to a "never fully off' position, it could be a problem, IMO. Hence the corresponding increase in idle speed too. I would worry...

 

[ForteGT2]

Movement of the accelerator pedal has little to no effect on the engine until APS reads 1.0 volts. If you adjust the cover so that it reads just under 1.0 volts will completely remove the dead spot and throttle response will be crisper. I don't recommend positioning the cover full forward as it positions the Throttle to an open condition -- which appears to advance the timing. Read this with my scanner. It makes the auto equipped cars' idle a little erratic too.

It helps the manual equipped cars (stock) because as you are letting off the clutch and trying to make a smooth take off you have to move the throttle more than expected to get the engine to respond. Pushing the throttle a little one would expect the engine to increase RPMs -- but a little throttle doesn't do this unless you take out the dead spot.

 

[ForteGT2]

I thought the timing settings were in the ECU not in a switch. This switch should be just telling the ECU "Hey the accelerator pedal is being used".

The accelerator pedal sensors (APS 1 and APS 2) are rheostats that increase the voltage to the ECU when depressing the pedal. The more the press the higher the voltage. The ECU uses those inputs to control fuel and timing. They are not just on-and-off switches.

 

[Silver2010]

Movement of the accelerator pedal has little to no effect on the engine until APS reads 1.0 volts. If you adjust the cover so that it reads just under 1.0 volts will completely remove the dead spot and throttle response will be crisper. I don't recommend positioning the cover full forward as it positions the Throttle to an open condition -- which appears to advance the timing. Read this with my scanner. It makes the auto equipped cars' idle a little erratic too.

It helps the manual equipped cars (stock) because as you are letting off the clutch and trying to make a smooth take off you have to move the throttle more than expected to get the engine to respond. Pushing the throttle a little one would expect the engine to increase RPMs -- but a little throttle doesn't do this unless you take out the dead spot.

Maybe so, and I suppose they made it adjustable for a reason. But what I'm seeing here is a little disconcerting...individuals adjusting their throttle without the proper equip to enure settings/voltage are correct. One person said it increased his idle to 1700 rpm. Another said timing was advanced to +12. If left like that, all sorts of problems will occur.

 

[subzeropr]

I was going to do this during the weekend but changed my mind. For now, I am going to leave it as it is. I will look to adjust it when I can measure the voltage of the APS.