Nevermind, I got it. I had to completely remove the top screw. Not sure why.

Car drives better, no doubt. But I still think the throttle sensor needs to be recurved. Needs more sensitivity in the low end.

 

Nevermind, I got it. I had to completely remove the top screw. Not sure why.

Car drives better, no doubt. But I still think the throttle sensor needs to be recurved. Needs more sensitivity in the low end.

I had to remove the top right screw too...I believe it is a set (locking) screw -- the other four are adjustment screws and the top right locks the switch in place to prevent movement if the others come loose.

 

Yeah, it was weird, I wondered if it would screw back in. Like maybe they adjust it on a jig, shoot the 4 screws, and then the 5th screw self-taps a new hole in the base to lock it down. But, no problem. Weird.

Now I wonder why they set the car up with the dead zone, and if there might be any long-term effects of this mod. Like, say something in the assembly wears over time, maybe the deadband was needed. I've got it adjusted to 0.97V, maybe it will wear and go over 1V causing problems? Who knows.

 

Yeah, it was weird, I wondered if it would screw back in. Like maybe they adjust it on a jig, shoot the 4 screws, and then the 5th screw self-taps a new hole in the base to lock it down. But, no problem. Weird.

Now I wonder why they set the car up with the dead zone, and if there might be any long-term effects of this mod. Like, say something in the assembly wears over time, maybe the deadband was needed. I've got it adjusted to 0.97V, maybe it will wear and go over 1V causing problems? Who knows.

If you can...check the voltage for a couple of weeks to get an idea if wear or temperature affects the voltage. If after a number of weeks everything stays the same then one can assume it will stay that way until it is adjusted again.

It is strange that they built it with such a dead zone... Possibly just keeping it as safe as possible?

 

Made this adjustment last night. OMG what a difference. I adjusted it all the way forward at first, but the car idled high, so I backed it off a couple of mm and it's perfect now. Absolutely no freeplay in the throttle, which feels kinda wierd, but my launches are smooth now. Thanks for the tutorial! I may actually enjoy driving this car now.

 

OUTSTANDING THREAD ! I am going to break out my multimeter tomorrow and do this.

I just picked up this car with 12 mile son it form a dealer and after driving manual for years this car had me noticing that i was turning down the radio while pulling out into first and eyeing up the tach just thinking something was not right and second gear was like mastering the art of zen trying to get a smooth shift.

Thanks to all that posted!

 

First, thanks a lot for this mod !!!

After I plugged my voltmeter to read the voltage correctly, I removed the fuel pump fuse and then turn the ignition on ... I had a reading of .77v. Then I turned the ignition switch off and loosen all the 5 screws ... Then I put the ignition on again and adjust the voltage to .93v by retighting the screws ... while doing this, you see the voltage changing constantly until you reach the end of the screws ... this is why it's practicle to have the ignition on to see the voltage reading changing while screwing. Once everything's done... plug again the fuse for the fuel pump, and start the engine. You'll see a difference of 0.02 to 0.03v. I mean that with the ignition on (engine off) I had a reading of 0.93 and with the engine on, I have 0.96. It changed a little bit.

Made this mod 3 weeks ago, and didn't get any check engine light. My only concern is that I changed my light pulley, so I think that 0.96v is too much for me , gonna try 0.88v /0.90v later on to see if It gives a difference. Is there other car owners with the light pulley changed that tried this mod ?

This was the method I used to adjust it ! Hope it can helps others those who had interrogations ... (for the fuel pump, I always remove it when I have to put the ignition switch on oftenly while doing testing-this is why in this mod, I removed it)

Sorry for my english folks !

 

2011 Koup Sx

I bought the 2011 Koup SX two days ago and i have the same prob. dunno why kia is not fixing from factory.

 

I will try it on my day off.By the way thereminneapolis auto repair is always a dead spot on every car...

 

I will try it on my day off.By the way there is always a dead spot on every car...[/QUOTE]

Maybe so...but I never heard so many owners complain about stalling a new car so easy before -- especially the ones who have driven sticks all their lives...LoL

 

Just did this on my 2011 Koup SX. Took 10 minutes, and worked perfectly. Starts are much smoother as well as shifting from first to second. Great DIY!

 

What is it exactly that ur moving? Placements of the screwS?

 

You are adjusting the accelerator pedal switch (APS) -- there is a dead spot when you first push the throttle - about 3/8" - until the engine responds to the throttle input.

Technically you are adjusting a reostat and getting the voltage close to-but-not-at 1.0 volts at idle!

 

Have been waiting for a while to do this Mod, and after driving the car for a while the way it was, the difference it very noticeable. No adjustment in my shifting was required because if feels like it should feel going through the gears.

Very Happy with the result.

 

great mod

I just want to say thank you for posting this.

spent over an hour trying to disconnect the wires from pedal (couldn't figure it out at all) then ended up sitting upside down in the car to unscrew and adjust the piece. I had the engine running and gear in neutral, and I could feel and hear exactly where the piece had to be adjusted to get it just right.

Working great so far!

Forte 5door EX 6speed Manual.

 

I'm assuming this mod is not worth it on a an auto tranny? The 2010 ex sedan I rented before 2 weeks before buying my 2011 Sx sedan had a much touchier throttle pedal and brake pedal is this normal or did they smooth it out for 2011, I kinda like th responsiveness of the touchy pedals more. Would this mod help that?

 

I did the mod to my 2010 Koup and could tell the difference - no dead spot. My 2010 sedan SX does not need it...the throttle has always been responsive on it...sometimes a little too much...LoL Both are 5 spd automatics.

Check your voltage at idle then move the throttle to see when it hits 1.0 Volt. If there is play then you can adjust it out to get less play -- the car responds quicker with less play.

 

Color me intrigued. I like the idea of this modification, but am hesitant to perform anything that might void the warranty. Is there any way to find out if this will void the warranty or not? If it does, I guess I'll have to continue to try and "learn" how to drive this car. I'm a novice, and admit it, but I never had as many issues stalling my friend's Mustang GT (on which I was an even bigger novice, since I had learned on that car).

In theory it's a good idea, but financially it might be a disaster if the warranty is voided.

 

Just completed this mod I'm at .94 volts will report with the results after I take her for a spin

 

Not overly impressed, maybe .94 isn't enough?
The 2010 ex was still much more responsive, I could barely tell the difference between .79 and .94 volts on my SX, I did notice that at 1.06 my idle went up, would .99 be better possibly?

On a side note careful of the set screw it is soft and I stripped it out, had to replace it with an identical

 

Not overly impressed, maybe .94 isn't enough?
The 2010 ex was still much more responsive, I could barely tell the difference between .79 and .94 volts on my SX, I did notice that at 1.06 my idle went up, would .99 be better possibly?

On a side note careful of the set screw it is soft and I stripped it out, had to replace it with an identical

This mod isn't going to make your car faster...it just gets rid of the dead spot, about 3/32" of pedal travel before the engine responds. It helps the manual tranny equipped cars the most because of the off-the-line start -- namely the clutch let-off and throttle tip in. A lot of experienced people tend to stall the engine because they are pushing the throttle lightly as they let off the clutch without knowing that the light push isn't making the engine respond until they do this mod. It helps the auto tranny owners by giving you the feel of having quicker engine response with the lightest push of the gas pedal.

1.0 volt is the "magic number" where the engine begins to respond. Going greater than .99 volt will trick the engine into thinking you have the gas pedal pushed so it won't want to idle -- don't go over .99 volts -- but it is best to give yourself a little play so .94-.97 is preferable.

 

I know it doesn't make it faster, what I am saying is the response isn't a whole lot better, on a 2010 ex sedan I rented the throttle was almost jumpy it was so responsive, this one SX feels much less so even after the adjustment to .94 volts

 

I know what you mean...my wife's Sedan SX is jumpy too -- push the throttle too much and you get instant torque steer and wheel chirp. I haven't done the throttle mod to it.
I did the throttle mod to my Koup, i like the feel/response...but it doesn't have the same snap to it as our sedan's. I think it's in the tuning.

 

I wonder if it has to do with the tranny, is your wifes a 2010? What years the Koup? I personally liked that snappiness, and was hoping to get that out of this mod, doesn't appear that'll happen , maybe a 6 spd thing, whereas the 4 and 5 spd has snap, alot of people complain about it but I prefer it

 

awesome thread! thanks everyone! just did this yesterday. Lovin' the difference

 

wicked!!! wish i found this thread long ago... huge difference on my 6speed SX

did mine with engine running... disconnected the battery after to clear the code

 

I went to the dealership today and talked to them about this mod and they asked someone in the service dept. and they said that there is no way to change it. So I went home and did it my self, I got my volt meter and got .75 V before and then once I tightened it back u I got .94 V and its perfect! It feels like a whole new transmission! It's sooo much easier to start from 1st and to go from 1st to 2nd. the only hard part was loosening the screws. That you so much for this mod!

 

I also did this this morning, It took me quite a long time (2 hrs) because I didn't really have the right tools and I couldn't really see the clip that I had to remove from the pedal very well. Eventually I just took the whole pedal off and it went very smoothly.

My advice to anyone (if they were unsure about how they would go about this) would be as follows:

1. Remove the pedal; unplug it as well.
2. Put the probe into the input of the orange wire and the other end onto the ground (there's one right beside the pedal)
3. Loosen the 5 screws and adjust - make sure not to go to either extreme, the sweet spot is close to the middle.
4. Put the pedal back in the car and plug it in but not permanently - turn the car on and check what the voltage says. If it's off then just unplug it and re-adjust it.

I don't know if someone posted this already, but if I had gone and done it this way rather than trying to adjust it while the pedal was still screwed to the car I would have finished in 15 minutes.

Hope this helps!

P.S. there is a noticeable difference - just make sure not to exceed 1.0 volts.

 

I'm an old fart ... been driving nothing but stick shifts for over fifty years (never learned how to drive an automatic). Just got my '11 Koup SX and after a couple of days I was sure I was ready for rubber underwear and depends! ... it was as if I forget how to drive a stick! I made this mod and all is right with the world again! Thanx to all you young whippersnappers who contributed to this thread!

P.S. adjusted to .94 -.97 V (seems perfect), and applied Loctite to the 10mm bold & nuts when re-installing.

 

Hey Guys,

I just wanted to give an update on my attempt at this.
I just got my 2011 Koup SX yesterday, and had read this thread prior. I went out to test out my deadzone stock from the factory. Its very minimal (like 1./16 of an inch), so I checked out the screws on the box. It looks like the are positioned closer to the back (so the plate is moved forward). I wonder if Kia knows of this issue now and has corrected it in some new models.

FYI I live in Calgary Canada and it was a 2011 Koup SX Lux Model.

 

I was thinking the same thing for my 2011 Koup SX, casue my "Dead Spot" isn't that bad... im still debating if i want to mess with it tho...

 

Once I get the wreck damage repaired on my car, I'll be doing this. If I had known about this I think I could have avoided the wreck. Was in the intersection had let off the gas, needed to get on it again but it hesitated when I did. Think this hesitation may have been the dead spot.