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Map sensor issue

45K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  mobileterminaluser  
#1 ·
Hello All.
I got a code P106 Generic for Manifold Absolute Pressure.
I change the sensor, and I keep getting the code, I have deleted the code like 6 times.
any ideas what else can be the cable is just like new and the connector.
The Car is a KIA Forte EX 2011 with 156,000 miles
Thank you
 
#6 ·
I've seen a small history of P0106 being set on KIA and (mainly) Hyundai vehicles. It's been reported as being set right after a battery change, and also with the vehicle having no performance issues, as would normally happen with a MAP problem. And those who followed up reported that the code disappeared after a short amount of driving.

This code is one of those that are set when the ECM compares a few values (such as MAP, TPS, ...) and determines that they're not consistent with each other. So what's probably happening is some, but not all ECM memory is reset to factory status when the battery is disconnected. This must be a totally random thing, because lots of batteries are replaced without the P0106 being set.
 
#7 ·
Engine Stalls When Coming to a Stop

Evening Kia Klan,

Recently had to have my battery boosted and ever since then car keeps stalling when coming to the stop. No experiencing very rough starts, rough idle until engine gives out. No stalls after each time starting. Had a code reader connected with a "Manifold Absolute Pressure" alarm.

Since then replace MAP sensor with new but still the same symptoms.

Anyone else experience the same symptoms?

Thanks,
Vee
 
#9 ·
Most of the time you just need to take the MAP sensor out and clean it with some parts cleaner. This is a common issue from oil getting on the sensor because of the intake design.
 
#12 ·
I know this is an old thread but I am going to post what happened with my car just incase it helps someone. I have a 2010 Forte EX/2.0 engine. I was having issues with it throwing the map sensor code and coolant sensor code. Seemed to run ok and they would clear themselves after a while so I ignored it for the most part. My car was having electrical issues, like sometimes when would start it it the dash lights would be dim and would crank as fast and when it started it ran like crap. And would throw all kinds of codes. And sometimes when you hit the brakes or use the turn signal the radio would cut out. Like some kind of ground issue or something? I ended up putting in a new alternator and battery and for the most part it seems to be ok. Radio still cuts out sometimes which is weird. And I have issues with the battery losing charge but I have been told that is because I don't drive it enough. Like less than 5000 miles in 2 years. I guess driving your car every two weeks or so is that great for the charging system.

So as I said before when it do the hard starting thing it would throw codes like map and coolant. I figured it was the electrical isssue confusing the computer and didn't worry about it. Car seemed to run fine otherwise. And the codes and engine light would clear after a while. Then I started getting the map code and coolant code and the car was actually starting to run a bit worse and getting worse on gas. Eventually to the point it wouldn't idle anymore which made it hard to drive in traffic or in town with it crapping out at every light or stop sign. So spent the 80 bucks on a new map sensor. Changed it out in the autozone parking lot. Super easy to change on my car. Except it didn't fix it. Still didn't want to idle. I looked for vaccum leaks and other stuff but couldn't find anything obvious. And it was giving me the same exact code. The P0106 I think? Something about it not getting a 5 volt signal. I went back in the store and told them it didn't fix it and if they had any ideas. The first thing they asked is if I disconnected the battery when I swapped it out. I said no, I just changed it and cleared the code with my hand scanner. They said that won't work, I have to do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, then clear it with the scanner, then start the car. I tried that and it seemed to work. Car idles again and engine light is off. We will see how it goes in the next few days. I am doing a full tune up tomorrow. New plugs, air filter, coolant sensor, clean the throttle body ect.

Another thing to keep in mind is some codes won't clear off the computer instantly and you can't erase them with a hand scanner. I think it is called a "persistant" code or something? You can replace the part and fix the problem and the car will run better but the computer still "holds" code and will show up when you scan it. The only way to clear them is to actually do the driving cycles described in the manual. Some scanners will tell you what that is or you can look it up online usually. Basically for certain codes it won't let them go and will hold them in storage until you drive the X amount of miles or for x amount time for x amount of times. Like you might have to drive the car 40 miles a couple times or make 3 or more trips without the computer sensing that issue. Then it will let the code go.

This is why sometimes you will get a check engine light, then it goes away a few days later. Or why your car will run fine but if you scan it the code will still show up even if the car is running fine.

I will add that I have replaced my alternator, battery and disconnected my battery several times for trouble shooting and I have not had simply doing that cause that code. I suppose it could happen but it hasn't happened to me. For me the code always shows up in conjunction with an engine issue or if the battery drains too low that it won't start or charge with the alternator.
 
#20 ·
Hello Paul I've read your comments in this form an few dozen times and have followed the same steps you've listed. 2010 kia forte with a CEL for the MAP sensor. Going through the trouble shooting ive tried new sensors and the vehicle seems to run worse to the point it will die in traffic when stopped an idling. In these secanrio's I have to but the factory sensor back in wait the ten mins batter disconnected reconnect and the vehicle will run but the light will come back on with 15 to 20 min and my performance will start to go back down hill.

I've since returned 3 different map sensor to 3 different stores with the same issues.

I've concluded that the original sensor will allow the vehicle to operate without it dieing when stopped, however gas mileage an acceleration are greatly affected.

What else can I do ? Please help ypur thread seems to be the closest I've found to the excat problems I'm having. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's my wife's car an I just want her to be safe. I haven't changed the battery and the mileage is 173,353
 
#13 ·
Paul Mohr, you might have an issue with fuel going bad. I'd suggest you get a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner and some fuel stabilizer. Dump the Techron in the tank and go fill up. Then depending on how much fuel your tank holds, read the chart on the fuel stabilizer bottle and add the appropriate amount. Then go for about a 30 mile ride.
 
#14 ·
This is some really interesting information. The “hard reset” is the best advice I have heard. Using a “non-factory” scan tool to clear the codes, still leaves the adaptive fuel control perimeters intact. I believe some of the adaptations are, somehow, corrupted when the battery is changed. The KDS at the Kia dealership has the capacity to reset all the adaptive programming. Many vehicles also have a recommended, process to reestablish adaptive parameters. Pretty much, everything with an electronic throttle body, meaning, no hard cable connection to the gas pedal are like that. I’m going to research this P0106 after a battery change & see what I can find. I can agree that leaving the NEG battery cable loses for at least 15min is a good idea.
 
#15 ·
I finished tuning the car up today and all is well. It runs fine now. Not perfect but I think it will take a few days for the computer to re learn and map everything. I'm going to take it for a little road trip tomorrow and drive it for a few hours.

I don't think it needed the coolant sensor changed but I did it anyway. Plugs actually looked pretty good and they were all the same so that is a good thing. Changed them anyway since I already bought them and had them out. I added some fuel sytem cleaner to the tank too and then filled it up. I also cleaned the throttle body which was disgusting so I might spray some GDI cleaner in it too just to see if it cleans up the manifold.

Its for sure not a bad gas issue. I have dealt with that before and its different. And I really haven't seen that be an issue in recent years with how newer gas is made. Back in the day it was an issue but it doesn't seem to be a big deal anymore unless you are leaving it sit for months and months. And then you are better off just draining it and flushing it rather than trying to fix it with some kind additive. I had a 75 280z with bad gas and I had to drop the tank and clean the whole fuel system to get it to run right again. What a nightmare lol.

I think most of the problems with my car is some kind of electrical issue. I have heard others with these cars say the same thing and the dealerships never seem to find the problem. Its either losing voltage in a wire somewhere or maybe has some kind of grounding issue. Might possibly be the ignition swtich too.

Honestly I think all it really needed was the new MAP sensor but since I had to work on it anyway and could afford it right now I just tuned it up and did the other sensor anyway. I would rather do it now than have it crap out on me in the middle of winter. I was hoping to get a little more pep out of it after tuning it up but it didn't really change much. It just runs smoother now and idles correctly. The real test will be how it does when it gets bitter cold here in Michigan.
 
#18 ·
Does the car run ok otherwise? It might idle a little weird for a while after replacing the sensor and re setting the computer but I think that is normal while it re learns some stuff. Also the code will not clear right away either. Some codes you can not manually clear. You have to drive the car for a while until the computer can verify the problem is fixed. Then it will clear them.

If the car runs good, has normal fuel consumption and isn't stalling the sensor is probably fine and you most likely fixed it. It just needs to be driven for a little bit, both highway and city driving. If you still suspect the sensor you can probably test it with a mulitimeter if you have one. You can probably google how to do it. Or like someone said above if you have scanner that reads live data you can see what the sensor is doing that way too.

Also keep in mind a bad sensor is not the only thing that can throw that code. You could have a have a vacuum leak, bad hose, dirty throttle body or something else.
 
#22 ·
That's what I coming to the conclusion of the first two sensor the nipple was slightly off. The 3rd sensor I tried looked like a excat match, but still led to problems at 89.99 each go around I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something else. I have yet to read that someone has gone through some much issues with sensor replacement.

My next step I guess would be to purchase o e straight from kia then ?
 
#23 ·
That's what I coming to the conclusion of the first two sensor the nipple was slightly off. The 3rd sensor I tried looked like a excat match, but still led to problems at 89.99 each go around I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something else. I have yet to read that someone has gone through some much issues with sensor replacement.

My next step I guess would be to purchase o e straight from kia then ?
When My Granddaughter's 2010 Forte EX started having idle problems and set a P0106 code we had the MAP sensor replaced with a factory Kia Sensor. Car is running like new - no problems, smooth idle, and no codes. Aftermarket and remanufactured sensors are a waste - IMHO.
 
#24 ·
When it comes to electronic sensors & modules it's better to buy OEM/factory.

Buying sensitive & finiky over the counter generic Chineseium parts from Autozone, O'Reillys, Napa, Pepboys, Advanced Auto parts, Carquest, Ebay, Amazon, or online. You run the chance of the aftermarket (non oem/factory) sensors & modules not working or causing more problems.

*Your local Kia/Hyundai dealership.
&Google any Kia/Hyundai dealership & order thru them.
*Kiapartsnow.com.
*Mykiaparts.com.
*your local junk/salvage yard for the "need it now oem/new to me" factory part.

I returned 3 clutch sensors from O'Reillys. None of them worked. I kept one to remind me to not be cheap.

Hope this helps. Let us know what the fix was.
 
#25 ·
Reviving this thread again. I just replaced all 4 fuel injectors on my 2011 2.0 Koup and I am now getting the P0106 CEL code. The vehicle is sometimes running rough and will intermittently stall while at idle. I also disconnected the battery while doing this to clean some corrosion and brush the battery posts, not sure if any of that is related.
 
#26 ·
May have to get a hold or buy an OBD2 automotive scanner. Autozone, O'Reilly's Pepboys automotive stores can't clear/delete any codes, only show on screen

also you may have to buy OEM/Factory MAP sensor for just in case. Disconnecting the battery doesn't always & effectively remoce/clear or deletes any DTCs MILs & Codes from modules. Modern or computerized equipped vehicle require for trouble codes to be cleared completely for new parts to be recognized as brand new & functioning parts by vehicle systems & modules.

Last resort would be the dealership to clear/delete remove the codes & do the MAP install. Call & ask.
 
#27 ·
May have to get a hold or buy an OBD2 automotive scanner. Autozone, O'Reilly's Pepboys automotive stores can't clear/delete any codes, only show on screen

also you may have to buy OEM/Factory MAP sensor for just in case. Disconnecting the battery doesn't always & effectively remoce/clear or deletes any DTCs MILs & Codes from modules. Modern or computerized equipped vehicle require for trouble codes to be cleared completely for new parts to be recognized as brand new & functioning parts by vehicle systems & modules.

Last resort would be the dealership to clear/delete remove the codes & do the MAP install. Call & ask.
Do you really think I should replace MAP sensor? I find it extremely coincidental this happened to appear exactly when we replaced the injectors.
 
#28 ·
You don't have to unless it's messed up, malfunctioning.

You'd have to get the resistance & load specs then multimeter test findings to see if it is out.

If you have a good level OBD2 scanner to delete saved codes that would help to let you know if indeed you need a new MAP sensor.

You can use MAP/MAF cleaner then reinstall to see if it's a misreading. If it keeps coming up, buy a new oem/factory MAP sensor from your local Kia/Hyundai dealership.

You can visit your local junk/salvage yard & see if there's a 1st gen 2010 thru 2013 koup or sedan. Yes it's a 50/50 chance but is a bit cheaper & if it works, is your band-aid get me till payday/saved enough cash to buy a brand new one from the dealership.

Don't buy non oem/factory sensors, switches & modules. Being cheap on sensitive expensive parts isn't worth it.