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TPS adjustment procedure (throttle mod.)

95K views 146 replies 57 participants last post by  Acura_Kal  
#1 · (Edited)
*note: This post covers the accelerator position sensor (APS) not the throttle position sensor (TPS).

Here's a brief tutorial on my method of adjusting the APS (accelerator position sensor) on a Kia Forte.

Step 1: Gather your tools

A. Multimeter (set to DC voltage- 20 scale)
B. A pin or needle (mine have alligator clips attached to them)
C. A small phillips screwdriver

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Step 2: With the engine off, locate and remove the connector from the top of the APS sensor (attached to the left side of the throttle pedal)

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Step 3: Insert pin or needle into the third wire from the left (orange). When inserting, make sure that you stick the needle where the wire comes into the connector (the side with the yellow retainer)- not the side that plugs into the APS sensor. This is called back-probing.

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Step 4: Plug the connector back into the APS and connect the multimeter (positive to needle on APS plug and negative to a good ground).

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Step 5: Start the engine. Your multimeter should read ~ 0.78 volts (that's what mine was). If your multimeter is reading 0 volts, check your connections- you may not have a good connection with the wire inside the connector.

Step 6: Loosen the 5 screws circled in red, but don't remove the sensor ( I borrowed this pic from the original tutorial).

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Step 7: While watching the multimeter, rotate the APS until you read close to, but no more than 1.0 volts. Mine started out at 0.98 volts, but decreased to 0.94 volts as I re-tightened the screws (I feel that 0.95 volts is ideal, but 0.94 volts is close enough for me). It may also take some wiggling/ more loosening of the screws to get the voltage to change.

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Step 8: Re-tighten the 5 APS screws, holding the sensor in its new position as you tighten (voltage will drop some).

Step 9: Remove the needle from the connector.

Step 10: Put your tools away! It's time to enjoy your work! :)
 
#83 ·
Finally done it :> Great mod!!!

At the end I took off the whole gas pedal assembly, made the job so much easier.

I did too...so much easier looking at what you are adjusting Vs smashed up under the dash in full body contortion...LoL!!!
 
#86 · (Edited)
It has a catch on it -- you have to squeeze a trigger and it unlocks, then you wiggle it off. The clip/latch is on the passenger side of the harness connector -- feel for it, squeeze it and you will feel a click when it releases.
 
#87 · (Edited)
Finally got it off. Had to take off the pedal assembly to do so, but still.....

And now another issue that I ran into when I was checking to see why I wasn't getting a voltage measurement: there appears to be a blue plastic that is covering all the back probing holes, which means I can't get a bare wire to connect to to test on the voltage :(


Edit: Well, finally solved the issue I was having with the addition of a sewing needle into the orange wire. Managed to get a reading off of it, and tweaked it to .95. I must say the response I get after it, and the transition into second gear is much smoother and nicer. Good takeoff, which I'm hoping will translate into better high end for freeway mergers, etc.
 
#89 ·
I just did mine and now have a CEL. Not happy about this. The car drives fine, so I will give the battery disconnect a try. I adjusted mine with the ignition on, not sure how else you could do it. Ended up with .91V and there is very little dead spot. I'm not sure it's really easier to drive, but I'll wait and see. I would prefer if the throttle was not so light and was not so aggressive. Our VW is much easier to drive because it has a more linear throttle and it's heavier.
 
#93 ·
I drove the car more extensively yesterday after the mod. All I can say is that it is different, but in my opinion, not really better. I still think the root of the problem is the pedal is too light and too aggressive at tip-in. A heavier, more linear throttle would transform this car. Somebody smarter than me get working on it!
 
#95 ·
Is there a trick to getting the connector off? I tried getting it off for almost 40 min today and had no luck. Tried to pry it off, that didnt work either :S

Any suggestions?
The connector has one clip on it -- you squeeze it until it clicks and then you wiggle the connector loose. Don't try prying it off you'll just break the clip. Take the pedal assy out by unscrewing the four 10 MM nuts and you can turn it over to see the clip you have to squeeze.
 
#98 · (Edited)
i just wanted to thank the original poster for the walk through, excellent guide! i'm a newbie to modding / accessorizing my autos so this was a great write up for sure!

i also took the time to make a video How-To based on this write up here, i'm editing right now, and as soon as it's finished and uploaded i'll post back here! again, i want to thank everyone for their posts and help. so with that said, i'm going to get back to editing and come back when she's done ;)

by the way the only Mods i've done so far are rims, this mod here and a blue LED Dome light.. (workin on it a little at a time)
next up is an exhaust, tint, and a wing in the back.

New Rims (only 16's i know, i know.. )
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#100 ·
Why is the link to "http://youtu.be/i8PV2_aoioQ"
My work firewall goes Crazy when we go places we aren't suppose to, so I inspect every link. Why not just post the youtube.com link?
 
#103 ·
Different readings

Hello I completed this mod this weekend but have different voltages. I have a 2012 Koup. I am from South Africa so the differences may be due to being a different region. At idle before adjustment i had a reading of 1.2V and the engine would only respond at a voltage of 1.6V. After adjustments I now have a reading of 1.4V at idle and once again the engine only responds at 1.6V. I am very happy with the adjustment to 1.4V at idle and the car still idles at about 750RPM. I thought i would just mention my different reading in case someone else may see the different voltages too.
 
#105 ·
This is a great thread. I used my multimeter on my 2010 (which I just bought in April) and made the mod about 3 weeks ago - took a couple of hours. I ended up around .98 volts and it made a huge difference. The throttle is still pretty finicky in first gear but no more bucking bronco just trying to get out of the driveway or cross an intersection in first. I would like to see a retrofit kit to really nail the throttle, but as is I am pretty happy. This car is a blast to drive now - a very pleasant surprise.

Does anyone know the ideal shift points? I usually shift around 2200 rpm if I recall correctly.