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I know this post is long dead, but I just did this today on my '11 Koup SX and let me tell you it's like learning how to left foot brake again regarding the sensitivity. I did it like some of the other guys suggested and adjusted it while the car was running to be able to fine tune it. Also, it did throw a CEL but with the learning ECU, I am sure that it will go off in the next couple of days. Now just to run it hard so it gets used to that. If anyone has any questions, just let me know. Best!
 
Just did this to my 2011 SX hatchback. The job took about 20 minutes. I completely removed the pedal from the firewall to do this job. One to be able to back probe the harness easier and, two, to make the adjustments on the pedal easier. Some things I found out that might not be clear in this thread:
1. The top right screw should be completely removed while the other 4 just need to be loosened very slightly.
2. You do not have to start the engine, just turn the car ON but not start.
3. I found it easier to remove the pedal, make the adjustment then reconnect the wiring harness to test. I did that 3 times. Once I got the number I wanted I reinstalled the pedal.

As stated in the thread, don't adjust over 1.00 or you will raise your idle. A reading of 0.95 is about the prefect reading. The factory setting of mine gave a reading of 0.79 That was way off and explains the tip-in dead spot. My first adjustment got me to 0.91 I tried for better and it slipped back to 0.83 The last try put it at 0.93

Great mod I highly recommend.
 
I hate that damn jerky shifts. 1st into 2nd & those stall outs for no reason. None of them by me. I want & need my Kia to last yrs.
 
Question: would that work on the 2nd generation as well? ours are sometimes rather phlegmatic, when accelerating, need a lot of throttle input to get going again, and then the auto gearbox goes 2 gears up, which is not the desire effect at all.
 
Question: would that work on the 2nd generation as well?
Would be interesting to check it out. I would assume it's quite similar.

I'll definitely be doing this in the upcoming week and am very excited. Hope it gets rid of that little lag that makes most shifts jerky as well as frequent stalls off the line.
So I finally got around to doing it a few weeks back. Been waiting to post my impressions as I wasn't very impressed at first. After running with it for a while, I like it. At first I hated it and found it difficult to get used to (I guess from driving with the pedal being so unresponsive for so long). After a few days I got used to it. It's definitely no "OMG THIS IS A MIRACLE mod" -- it just makes the gas pedal engage higher up (like, RIGHT at the top if you set it to ~0.97). I was thinking of backing it down to 0.85~0.90 cuz I felt 0.97 was too sensitive/touchy, but it's fine now. I dunno about other 2010 SXs but I found mine was always VERY easy to stall and this definitely helped with that, it's smoother/quicker off the line. I did over-rev my shifts the first few times though :D

To be noted (thanks @NovaResource for helping me figure it out!) -- you need to loosen all 5 screws and really back out/almost remove the top right one. I had loosened all screws A LOT and the damn thing wasn't "rotating" -- after checking with Nova, he told me about that top right screw and after backing it out like 1 more turn, the whole thing was then able to "rotate".

TLDR: The mod is nice and worth doing, it's not a miracle but helps the clunky shifts.
 
Want to improve your first gear take off? Want to get rid of that annoying dead-spot in your gas pedal? Do you have 10 minutes and a Phillips screwdriver? Then i have a mod for you.

First off i own a 2010 Forte SX sedan and i hated how the gas and clutch worked. Over reving the engine or stalling at the lights was a pain in my $&%^!!!

The gas pedal works by wire, no cable. The fix involves loosening 5 Phillips screws on the left side of the gas pedal. The screws hold the pick ups for the sliders feeler arms. Once the its loosened it can be repositioned by moving it in 1 of 2 directions towards the front of the car or back. Front of car will take out the dead spot and to the rear will give you a HUGE dead-spot. The pic is upside down and only shows 3 of the 5 screws and where the the wire plugs into it.

I took my pedal rite out and was going to mod it but then i noticed that there was room to slide it instead of hacking it up.

Link to tutorial Best Throttle mod ever
Mannnn!! Easy peasy...driving this same ryde for nearly a decade and just did this mod...feels like a new car!! 1st gear launch....wow! Thanks for the headz up!!
Just one question....anyone else experiencing high idle when sitting??? I'm sittin steady at 1300-1400 and she won't come down even after 30 kins of driving. Computer need to relearn?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!
 
Mannnn!! Easy peasy...driving this same ryde for nearly a decade and just did this mod...feels like a new car!! 1st gear launch....wow! Thanks for the headz up!!
Just one question....anyone else experiencing high idle when sitting??? I'm sittin steady at 1300-1400 and she won't come down even after 30 kins of driving. Computer need to relearn?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!
You have over-adjusted your switch! When you over adjust the switch the voltage is too high and the ECU thinks you have the throttle pushed. Simply readjust your switch back about 1/16" and your idle will come down.
 
Question: would that work on the 2nd generation as well? ours are sometimes rather phlegmatic, when accelerating, need a lot of throttle input to get going again, and then the auto gearbox goes 2 gears up, which is not the desire effect at all.
Not sure about the 2nd Gen Fortes but it won't work on the 3rd gen Fortes for sure - no adjustment.

If you have a 2nd Gen Forte take a look at the throttle switch for adjusting screws.
 
Not sure about the 2nd Gen Fortes but it won't work on the 3rd gen Fortes for sure - no adjustment.

If you have a 2nd Gen Forte take a look at the throttle switch for adjusting screws.
I was hoping that someone knew. I had a look and the appearance is different, looks as if I need to remove it altogether to see, if there are adjusting screws or not. Did not spend the time to do that.
 
I was hoping that someone knew. I had a look and the appearance is different, looks as if I need to remove it altogether to see, if there are adjusting screws or not. Did not spend the time to do that.
Yeah, I got on the floor and removed my 2021's throttle to see if it was adjustable...NOPE, no adjustment points/screws. Just have to live with driving in "sport" mode around town...:)
 
I finally did the position throttle/gas pedal repositioning mod.

Pita on your back & laying on the side. Took all but it maybe 30min to complete. Used a jeweler's screwdriver to back probe at Orange wire (+) & negative (-) at a screw/bolt.

Followed as post but ONLY loosened the screws enough to move/pivot the sensor enough to have resistance as I back probed the pedal. Then tightened all screws while watching multimeter # move staying under 1.0V.

Big difference. I know it's not a full ecu/computer flash, but it's more responsive at all gears & that damn jerkiness & stallings are gone. I drive my Kia Forte Koup SX 2.4L 6MT Theta 2 for an hr & got to it.

It's just like messing with the air & fuel mixture screws on a weedeater/weed whacker. I've been driving standard/manual since 13yrs. I've only encountered stalling & jerkiness & lurching jumping in my Kia Forte Koup SX. I know it's not me cause it's expensive to fix transmissions.

Big improvements on all gears. I'm sure the same would work on Automatics that are drive by wire.

Anthony
 
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Using the loose & tight (at all screws) enough to slide sensor cover plate under 1.0V & over OEM/factory/default on my Kia Forte Koup SX 2.4L 6MT Theta 2 pedal setting. I didn't have any trouble at all.

The pita was on my back/side. Other than that. It's easy throttle positioning pedal mod.
 
No DTC's/codes, MIL at all from the start. I had ignition off/key off during the entire time.

It's a nice noticable difference, especially at stops, red lights, yields. Especially at 1st gear. No more jumps, jerking, jumping, lurching & stalling like a noob even though I've been driving standard/manual since middle school.

It's a nice & good adjustment to the drive by wire gas pedal.

Anthony
 
Just to update. 5-6-21 absolutely no acceleration & mechanical problems at all.
I have an automatic, and I read through this post (all 22 pages) and I've seen other people saying it's okay for the AT folks to do it too. If I do it, I think I would only adjust it by an eighth or sixteenth. Thanks for posting pictures! This seems like the type of thing to really mess with an old ecu, so I'm hesitant. I'll be installing a CAI soon enough and my understanding is I just have to run the engine hard for it to reset the ecu. Same line of thinking for this adjustment?
 
I have an automatic, and I read through this post (all 22 pages) and I've seen other people saying it's okay for the AT folks to do it too. If I do it, I think I would only adjust it by an eighth or sixteenth. Thanks for posting pictures! This seems like the type of thing to really mess with an old ecu, so I'm hesitant. I'll be installing a CAI soon enough and my understanding is I just have to run the engine hard for it to reset the ecu. Same line of thinking for this adjustment?
All depends on how your throttle responds now. My wife's 2010 Sedan Forte SX AT did not need adjusting - it had crisp throttle response. My 2010 Koup SX AT needed the adjustment.
 
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