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This will be going on the DIY collection youtube.com/forteforumsDIY
Good job!
 
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Different readings

Hello I completed this mod this weekend but have different voltages. I have a 2012 Koup. I am from South Africa so the differences may be due to being a different region. At idle before adjustment i had a reading of 1.2V and the engine would only respond at a voltage of 1.6V. After adjustments I now have a reading of 1.4V at idle and once again the engine only responds at 1.6V. I am very happy with the adjustment to 1.4V at idle and the car still idles at about 750RPM. I thought i would just mention my different reading in case someone else may see the different voltages too.
 
This is a great thread. I used my multimeter on my 2010 (which I just bought in April) and made the mod about 3 weeks ago - took a couple of hours. I ended up around .98 volts and it made a huge difference. The throttle is still pretty finicky in first gear but no more bucking bronco just trying to get out of the driveway or cross an intersection in first. I would like to see a retrofit kit to really nail the throttle, but as is I am pretty happy. This car is a blast to drive now - a very pleasant surprise.

Does anyone know the ideal shift points? I usually shift around 2200 rpm if I recall correctly.
 
i did this mod yesterday without a multimeter.

made a huge difference
 
Tps adjustment

WILL THIS HELP FUEL MILEAGE? If not, will going the other way
With the adjustment increase mileage.



*note: This post covers the accelerator position sensor (APS) not the throttle position sensor (TPS).

Here's a brief tutorial on my method of adjusting the APS (accelerator position sensor) on a Kia Forte.

Step 1: Gather your tools

A. Multimeter (set to DC voltage- 20 scale)
B. A pin or needle (mine have alligator clips attached to them)
C. A small phillips screwdriver

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Step 2: With the engine off, locate and remove the connector from the top of the APS sensor (attached to the left side of the throttle pedal)

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Step 3: Insert pin or needle into the third wire from the left (orange). When inserting, make sure that you stick the needle where the wire comes into the connector (the side with the yellow retainer)- not the side that plugs into the APS sensor. This is called back-probing.

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Step 4: Plug the connector back into the APS and connect the multimeter (positive to needle on APS plug and negative to a good ground).

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Step 5: Start the engine. Your multimeter should read ~ 0.78 volts (that's what mine was). If your multimeter is reading 0 volts, check your connections- you may not have a good connection with the wire inside the connector.

Step 6: Loosen the 5 screws circled in red, but don't remove the sensor ( I borrowed this pic from the original tutorial).

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Step 7: While watching the multimeter, rotate the APS until you read close to, but no more than 1.0 volts. Mine started out at 0.98 volts, but decreased to 0.94 volts as I re-tightened the screws (I feel that 0.95 volts is ideal, but 0.94 volts is close enough for me). It may also take some wiggling/ more loosening of the screws to get the voltage to change.

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Step 8: Re-tighten the 5 APS screws, holding the sensor in its new position as you tighten (voltage will drop some).

Step 9: Remove the needle from the connector.

Step 10: Put your tools away! It's time to enjoy your work! :)
WILL THIS HELP FUEL MILEAGE? If not, will going the other way
With the adjustment increase mileage.
 
Oh mannnnn, this has to be the best thing ever, well not the best but its up there. Thanks for the DIY. was extremely easy. Got it set at .94v Threw a couple codes, but not a biggie. Went to work and used the GDS (kia scan tool) and found codes P2122 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Low Input) A P2127 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit Low Input) and a P2104 (Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Idle ) Just cleared the codes. took it for a rip and rescanned the PCM and found no codes. MINT
I got the same codes as you did and it wont let me clear them for some reason? I have the P2122 and P2104 codes. I tightened everything back up and it is idling and running great. Any ideas?
 
Fixed it. haha read up a little more which refreshed my memory that i could just disconnect the battery. duh. haha
 
I did the mod. Got the voltage to 0.98. Appears to have much better take offs by reducing the dead spot which causes the stalling.

After driving for a while, I need to relearn my take off. I did the mod after 42000 miles of driving at 0.78volts. The dead spot is gone.

Has anyone figured out how to increase the idle speed? That would certainly help. I think the Forte idles at less than 700 rpm.
 
is this essentially the same thing as the other tutorial? just a more precise way to get the proper rotation? i did it the other way by just guessing it and my RPMs are normal and the dead spot is gone. so i think i did a good job.
 
Just did this to my 2011 SX hatchback. The job took about 20 minutes. I completely removed the pedal from the firewall to do this job. One to be able to back probe the harness easier and, two, to make the adjustments on the pedal easier. Some things I found out that might not be clear in this thread:
1. The top right screw should be completely removed while the other 4 just need to be loosened very slightly.
2. You do not have to start the engine, just turn the car ON but not start.
3. I found it easier to remove the pedal, make the adjustment then reconnect the wiring harness to test. I did that 3 times. Once I got the number I wanted I reinstalled the pedal.

As stated in the thread, don't adjust over 1.00 or you will raise your idle. A reading of 0.95 is about the prefect reading. The factory setting of mine gave a reading of 0.79 That was way off and explains the tip-in dead spot. My first adjustment got me to 0.91 I tried for better and it slipped back to 0.83 The last try put it at 0.93

Great mod I highly recommend.
 
Just did this to my 2011 SX hatchback. The job took about 20 minutes. I completely removed the pedal from the firewall to do this job. One to be able to back probe the harness easier and, two, to make the adjustments on the pedal easier. Some things I found out that might not be clear in this thread:
1. The top right screw should be completely removed while the other 4 just need to be loosened very slightly.
2. You do not have to start the engine, just turn the car ON but not start.
3. I found it easier to remove the pedal, make the adjustment then reconnect the wiring harness to test. I did that 3 times. Once I got the number I wanted I reinstalled the pedal.

As stated in the thread, don't adjust over 1.00 or you will raise your idle. A reading of 0.95 is about the prefect reading. The factory setting of mine gave a reading of 0.79 That was way off and explains the tip-in dead spot. My first adjustment got me to 0.91 I tried for better and it slipped back to 0.83 The last try put it at 0.93

Great mod I highly recommend.
Very interesting. I would like to try this mod, but I have a 2016 Forte. The Accelerator Position Switch is still mounted on the firewall like your 2011, but the actual accelerator pedal is floor mounted. Do you know if this mod would still work?
I'm still under warranty; should I be safe attempting this mod, or attempt it when the warranty expires?:unsure:🤔
 
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